Hey Guys for all of you who have started at newby level and had no clue. Please tell me : I have a A14 with STD Everthing Execpt a Weber 36 dcd7 DownDraught, Electronic Ignition and Tonight I have put a (Downdraught Cut) Cam into my motor. But I Expected alot more then it's giving. So i ask, please tell me if the jetting on the weber needs to change, what should the timing be Aprox and / or could it be the STD intake manifold ? Please anyone

a mild cam alone won't transform the car into a firebreather. But cam timing is critical too. how did you set it up?

Did you get a spec. sheet ?

No, but i will call the Engineering Co. today and post it 4 you. if it would help. Futher the timing self is set to 10. If that is what you wanted to know ?

Clive

What is the cam specs?
Do you have a freeflow exhaust on the bakkie?
The timing sounds right if it is on 10 degrees.
That is what the specs say for us here in South Africa.

A cam alone is not going to give alot more power.
Actually you should have gotten a reading on a dyno before installation and after installation.
A cam as far as I know without cylinder head work gives you about 8 to 9 hp increase.
With a port and gasflow it gets alot more.

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no, cam timing. the cam controls when the valves open and close,and how far they open. getting a cam grind aims to alter the timing of the opening and closing events of the valves to improve breathing, and give it a bit more lift. so it important to time the cam to the crank so everything is working as it should. mistiming the cam by a few degrees can make a 30/72 cam a 27/75 or a 33/69 - very different things!

Hey, ya the Cam pulley timing mark and the Crank timing mark did line up fine. And I'm From Pretoria SA. So Should i Get a 4 to 1 Branch Fitted or an Other intake for the time being? I'l have the Cam Spec by this afternoon.

L18_B110 wrote:
Quote:

would you have to get it a tooth or two out on the sprocket to do that unless you had adjustable cam gear?

dumb question coming up: 30/72 cam designation refers to what? presumably duration, but 30 & 72 are real close together when you have 360 deg in a circle.

The dude who built my engine reckons it either has a 30/70 or a 35/75 cam in it- but he can't find the details and since I am the second owner its not worth his time to find out.


Cheers

One of the most important things to remember about going to a bigger cam profile is when the valves are opened more & longer , higher compression is needed,unless you are turboing the engine .So if you are going with a bigger cam then you need to up the compression too to make the cam work like it was ground to do.

Quote:It could still be off a couple of degrees. The factory marks are not precision. You should get the cam time specs from the manufacturer and use a dial indicator to make sure it's timed exactly right. Custom cam manufacturers invariably suggest this unless they are just selling "stock replacement" cams.

The old saying about "bigger cams require more compression" is a myth from the old days of the 1960s and 1970s. Dyno tests prove that a bigger cam along with free-flowing intake and exhaust will make big power increases. Higher compression will add even more, but it not required.

Just keep in mind that short of supercharging or 8000 rpms, nothing is going to make an 85 cubic inch A14 engine make "big" power. It's a small engine.

Adding headers/extractors/branches won't suddenly change it from "little change" to "big change". The factory A14 camshaft is also "downdraft cut" (designed for a downdraft carb), but A14 factory design peaks at 5600. Why? the first limit is the small carb, which you've remedied by putting a 32/36 DCD on it. The next limit may be the 1.5 inch exhaust, if you go to 1.75 then you'll hit the limit of the stock cylinder head, which is only good for 6000 rpm or so.