With the rebuilt engine, before firing it for the first time, pull the coil lead and crank until you get oil pressure so that everythings nice and wet in there.

As for the su's, just 20w engine oil should do for summer (its summer there now right?) when it gets to the colder months maybe try some auto trans fluid for snappier throttle response.

With the bleeding of the clutch, You can do this as dodgeman has said on your own. just dont release the pedal until the bleeders been done up.

Is your slave cyl on the left or the right? If its not on the drivers side, its probably too hard to do it yourself.
I just pump the clutch pedal a few times with my hand, (you wont feel any pressure for a few goes.) hold the pedal down after the final stroke then crack the bleed valve and then tighten again, you should hear a little air come out, repeat this until you have 'pedal'.

Good luck and have fun learning!!

#1 If you need to keep the crank from rotating with the engine fully installed, try placing the gearbox in the highest gear & stand on the brake pedal while your mate torques it up. No mate? Then pull the handbrake on firmly & give it a try.

#2 As a starting point, fill the clutch master cylinder resevoir, refit cap, then slowly pump the pedal up & down for a dozen strokes or so. Check the fluid level. If it is down, then top it up & keep going. If not, then get your wife to push the pedal while you expell the air at the end of each down stroke.
I was actually able to bleed my 810 clutch cylinder single handedly this way. It took a week or two of driving before the last bubbles worked their way up.
Two man bleeding is best, but if you are on your own, then give it a try.

#3 I used engine oil because I was too damn lazy to get lighter stuff & the engine ran well anyway. There was always a little engine oil left over when I serviced it so it was used in the carbs as required.
I suppose I was just being an 'individual'

The book says
Gasoline engine oil & carburetor damper oil.
Specification..... API SE [Further details. refer to recomended SAE Viscosity chart.]

Well what do you know, just check the chart in your owners manual for the recomended engine oil in the temperatures that you will be in, & make a chioce from the various overlaping grades.
Hell, I was right anyway. Who'd a thought it.

OK I'm tired of waiting on my "friend" to give me a hand getting my engine running for the first time so I'm forced to try it myself. I've never done this before so I was hoping for help from someone with experience but oh well. I'd like to use this thread to post questions for when I get stuck or confused. Thanks in advance for any help!

I've got an A14 rebuilt with dual Hitachis "SU" carbs installed. I haven't cranked it up yet.

OK #1 I didn't fully torque the main bolt when I assembled it. They guy helping me said we shoudl torque it fully later (don't ask me why). So my question is, will engaging the clutch hold the engine enough to fully torque it to spec or is there some other way to hold it? My engine is fully assembled and installed.

#2, I need to fill the clutch fluid. Can someone give me a simple step by step? My manual left me a little confused. Do I just fill the resorvoir and bleed it at the slave, and then fill again? Is some pumping of the clutch pedal required?

#3 What is the recommended fluid for the dampers in the dual Hitachi carbs? None of my manuals mention the SU's of course since they weren't OE on my 210. I've heard somewhere that sewing machine oil is the proper weight???

thansk
michael