200b steering arms are shorter than the stanza ones ?? pigdog's the expert with 200b measurements. as for the calipers the atoyot 4pots will bolt up to the stanza strut and with the right rotors on the stanza hub they will all bolt up nice. another one to pigdog

Nah i dont know about 200b steering arms, just saying ive heard people playing with different datsun/nissan steering arms.

Could of been pintara??? Cant bloody remember now.

Regarding LJ Torana Castor Rods:

Pic of modification to LJ Rod

By Grunterhunter

For what it's worth I have tried 275lbs, 250lbs and 225lbs springs. The 225's were the best compromise between road and track.
Matty

Thats what i might go for i think, i need to order these tomorow.
what shocks are you using matt?

Hey Whitey,
I use 300lb springs on the racecar! Did 42 laps on Sunday at Wakefield and found them to be spot on (compared to the 195lb with the A-series - too soft!). A little bit lighter is probably good for the road as you suggest. Good front inserts will make all the difference in comfort and handling though!!
Cheers
P.S. Dog160 says the L20 sounded awesome coming down the straight

my old coupe had:

FRONT:
estimated 300lb front (cut gemini coils)
120Y sway bar (20mm last time I looked)
~4.5 degree camber
redrilled x-member and stanza LCA
lots of castor - can't recall how much, but there was lots of gaurd cuting involved to get as much as I had.

REAR:
approx 180lb springs (calculated)
17mm Whiteline sway bar, ground down a couple of mm to soften it.
locked diff

this was really a little soft for the track IMHO, and was still bearable on the road. If you are serious about track days, I wouldn't go any softer

Sweet as, cheers for the info guys!

Bugger it 300lb's it is, if 300lb springs are too stiff i can always get rid of them, have to do some chasing around, see if i can get some tomorow!

Ive got good shocks so hopefully it will make the difference. At least i can wind them to soft for the road.

R-Fast, what do you rev the L20 out to? Ive been told my L16 with the head i just got built will rev happily around 7500 all day. I just got some 42DCOE's on the weekend so im bolting them up to my new head as well for a few more ponies.

I really have to make a trip up the east coast after ive had mine on the track and have a steer against you guys!

L16 should be a real screamer with the right parts. What cam are you running? I wouldn't go smaller than a 76, and if you want a real good cam, a Stewart Wilkins Racing high lift (.595") 76 is the business! you'll need NISMO spring retainers and shims for that sort of cam though, and obviously good valve springs for either, with attention to piston-valve clearance. but a normal 76 can generally be fitted without piston reliefs at around 10-10.5 CR

My old home built L18 used to see 8000rpm down the Hills at Mt Cotton because it wasn't worth upshifting just before the hairpin. Normally shifted at 7000rpm though, but my head was pretty mild and only had 40mm Dellortos (36mm chokes)

So far I've just used a L20 cam, still have to set up rocker geometry, pain in the arse, bloody lash pads!! (I thought the engine builder would of set the cam up for me but no, well gotta learn somewhere!)

Apparently L20 cam will give a bit more lift than the L16 cam. My head is a A87 219 casting with peanut shaped combustion chambers, not sure what CR it will be. It has brand new nissan valves and hardware, I got a mild port job and inlets matched to my weber manifold, should be a nice streetable engine.

I have another SSS head W53 (if i remember right). I want to get this built with a more suitable cam but I have to start spending some serious cash then.

Ah money, need more!

I've got Koni yellows in the front and reds in the back. Keep in mind it takes plenty of laps to find what you do and don't like. 300lb front springs to me is way too stiff but Harry found it perfect for him.
Matty