hey guys. can anyone put up a pic of the 2 different sized ball joints? or what part to look for when ordering new ones? it's for my 78 coupe

thanks

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The motor is stock no porting.Im hoping to run 13.40s all motor and 12.40s whit 50 shot.Next race is july 17.

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http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawi ... tle=Ball_Joint_Comparison

B110, B120 and B210 w/A12 1974-1975 JDM
•40160-H1000 Lower Ball joint ass'y $77.83 USD

Late B210 JDM/Late Truck Style
•40160-H7400

Hey everyone, I thought this might be a good place to show some pics of my nearly finished 120Y and give a little spill on it.

It's a 1978 beast with 70,000km's on the clock. I got it with 63,000km's on it and I've had it for 5 years.

I've just installed a fully rebuilt L20B from a S2 Bluey running a hybrid T03 turbo. I'm doing a suck through with one single 45mm weber. The car also has R31 brake upgrade and coil over suspension in the front, Z31 rear discs with R31 callipers. Using a Stanza SSS box with the dog leg pattern and a slightly modified 620 ute diff.

Seats have been replaced with some nice Recaros and moved back 4 inches to allow for more room.

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VERY nice mate cant wait to see it finished!!!

going by that its a b211 has the newer grille, i take it being newer i need the larger joint?

I was always wondering why I had the different grill. Cheers for the heads up.

If anyone on this thread needs info on how to do the conversion for an L series into a 120Y please feel free to ask cos I have been through it all and now have a good setup.

I'll put more pics up soon now that the weber is mounted with a nice new custom inlet to the turbo.

So I got those 120y sedan tail lights from Bangkok parts on ebay. I feel compelled to give them a review for anyone wishing to purchase them for thier Y.I made the pics 1200 x 900 for a bit more detail so they're hosted on my imageshack account.

Firstly the packing wasn't bad at all, nice and secure (packing straps around box, foam wrap inside, bubble wrap inside individual boxes and plastic bag over light) but the cost is silly.



Here you can see the difference in the coloring of the units. The lens is removable compared to the original one being glued in. This will be useful because I plan to stick a reflective strip behind the red reflector to block the light of the tail lights ruining the original light profile.







The surrounds are of the same profile but different, the new one is just chromed plastic and pained to give the basic look where the original has a stainless steel trim. This is why I'd like to find a good nick surround for my origional lights cos I happen to like the stainless.





Not much to say here. The femal connector doesn't seem to lock into place like the original so I'll swap the wiring over with my old one (plus the indicator seems to be stuck rather than flashing so instead of doing the right thing and checking the flashers I'm going to revert to the old wiring which worked yesterday :P)








I was talking to a guy on ebay who also bought these and he wasn't real happy with the quality of the lenses, I expected there to be differences in every unit so I'm not real worried plus what I do with my car negates the need for concourse finish lenses.

Overall I like them and they'll suit me fine so I can put my originals in the shed and track down some surrounds for them. I'm going to make my own gaskets for these though as the supplied gaskets are about 1\3 of the thickness of the originals. The plastic has enough give to pull up into the body but we'll see how they handle a couple of khanacrosses and the associated vibrations.

To add insult to injury I pulled off my drivers guard to swap it for a straighter one so I could pull the bumper in and I noticed my head gasket is leaking!! Grrr

New vs old, I can deal with the lense looking darker and lighter but that surround looks crap compared to the original



Another



And the simple fix for the lack of true reflector in the lens. Also stuck some in the reverse section, gotta help those little bulbs. The stuff is Silverbatts insulation tape, can withstand temps up to 127deg c and doesn't fade due to the metallic content so it should work well.