does anyone have an electronic dizzy (from some pulsar i think, machined and modified) that will suit my a15? I can get one made up for about $300, but if someones donk has
just blown up, id gladly get a second hand one instead... I heard that an electronic diz is a must when running webers - what u all think?
cheers, linc

Don't have a spare but did fit an E15 Pulsar dizzy to my A12 motor some time ago. The distributor only cost me $65.00 from the wreckers and took about an hour tops to fit. $300 sounds like a
rip off. Can't remember exactly how it went but when you look at both of them side by side they are really similar. The E15 dizzy will slide straight in the hole, all I had to do was take the
drive cog off the A12 and put it on the E15 then drill the hole for the pin. Again I don't remember exactly about spacing the cog but it clear when they are side by side. I have the early
block with the dizzy to the front and I had to make up a point so the locking bolt for the dizzy still worked and allowed some adjustment. This was done by shaping a 1.6mm piece of aluminium
plate in an arched shape with a hole for the dizzy to go through. Theis then bolted into the original hole in the block and had a new hole overhanging the bllock for the pinch bolt to lock the
dizzy. I can't remember if I needed the spacer to also help with the right length of the drive cog or whether I located it about 1 mm lower to compensate for the plate. I think the later dizzy
hole to the back is a bit different but only in regards the locking bolt. That plate I mention is like a quarter of a circle but again when you see the shape around the hole you should
understand. Wiring is straight forward (I just asked the wrecker)as there are only 2 or 3 wires 1 being HT, one positive and one earth. Sorry but haven't looked at it in a while but it really
is very simple. There was definately no machining required however. Don't forget to bypass the ballast resistor which your coil should have now so you get the full 12 volts to the coil all the
time. And something I haven't got around to yet is putting in a HEI (electronic iginition) coil to ensure maximum spark power which the electronic dizzy can now handle.

Do u still have the engine? could u check some of those things for me? i sorta understand, but not enough to start doing anything - any help would be appreciated! did it
make a difference to running?
Linc

I've got a newer A15 electronic distributor in my car. To bypass the ballast resistor, do you just connect the two wires together???

I've been driving it around with the ballast resistor hooked up for quite a while now. I have some problems with the way it's setup now in that I had to put a kill switch in to
get the engine to actually shut off. Without the kill switch the engine just keeps on running when the key is turned off. Anyone else have this problem with their electronic
ignition?

-Andy

Hey Andy,
You will need to get another coil for your car to go with the electronic ignition. The external resister coil as comes on the 1200, uses two wires from the ignition switch, one that goes
directly to the coil that is only used when the starter is cranking, this gives it the full power as the available volts and amps go down while the starter is cranking. The other wire is used
to go to the resister for normal operation while the motor is running. Most of the external resister coils will burn up real quick if they have the full voltage and power on them all of the
time. You will need to get an internal resister coil from a later model car. The external resister coil usually is only 20,000 volts where as the electronic ignition internal resister coils
out put 30,000 to 40,000 volts. You will then have to splice the two wires coming from the ignition switch together and put them on the coil so as to have full voltage when cranking and
running. You will notice a big difference in the way it starts, idles and runs when you go with the later coils. Don't forget to re-gap your spark plugs when you put in the new coil. You don't
really need the electronic ignition distributor to use the internal resister coil, all the electronic distributor does is make it where you don't have to adjust the points periodically. The
internal resister high tension coil can still be used with points with the same results as an electronic distributor.

Yes it does run better and i can check the wiring and stuff but can't easily check the cog set up as the car is running. Will look at the wiring tomorrow if i remember but you
might have to wait on anything else until I do a tune next. What do you really need clarified???

Have not seen the problem of running on associated with the dizzy. Mine definately does not do that. It almost sounds like the power feed to your coil is permanently live rather than fed
through the ignition. A test light will confirm this. Yes you just have to take the resistor out of the loop. Again its been a while since I did this but the wiring was easy. My only
hassle was that the feed to the tacho must have been linked to the resistor somehow so I had to bridge the wires to get it going again but that would be linked to some bodgy wiring in the
past. The ballast resistor is there to cut feed to the coil after the engine starts, it only gets 12 volts on ignition then usually drops to around 9.

Basically what needs to be done to get the new diz to fit - if it is all straight foward, then good. I understand i need to take the gear off my diz, and put it onto the new one -
and ill need to make up a plate, so i can attach the diz to the block - is this pretty much it (not counting the electrics)?
linc

I had the same run-on problem when I installed a Z-20 engine in a 1200. My problem was with the alternator wiring. I had to install a diode on one of the wires to keep it
from sending current back to the hot side of the coil. I hope this helps.

OK Linc here we go.
Wiring is easy. There is an obvious earth lead off a lug near the vacuum advance taht can go under any bolt on the block or body. There are 2 main wires out of the dizzy. Blue goes to - side
of coil. Black with white trace to + side. I know this sounds back the front with black usually - or earth but that is what the wrecker top me and it works. To be sure have a look at a Pulsar.
I would also get a coil out of a late model EFI car from the wreckers also so you can make the most of it. A v8 or turbo car would be good they usually need strong spark.
The plate I made was 2mm aluminium because thats what I had and its easier to shape than steel. Basically it has a hole just big enough for the dizzy body to go through. eg same as hole in
block. It sticks out side of block by a couple of inches, enough for the cast adjusting lug on side of dizzy. I have about a 2mm gap from top of gear to body of dizzy when the shaft is all the
way down. eg it has some up and down play.
Another measurement is that the distance from the bottom of the gear to the bottom of the shaft is 9mm. eg the drive gear actualy sits lower than the bottom of the shaft.
As far as lining it all up goes to be able to adjust easily timing after I think i took dizzy cap off and turned motor over so rotor button was pointing directly at no1. Reference marks on
body of dizzy etc help this. Then when I put it together I just drilled the adjusting locking hole in the plate out where I had plenty of room to get at it and so when the new dizzy was
pointing straight at no1 I had equal arc on either side to be able to advance and retard. Its a little tricky at first because with the gear drive it turns as the gears mesh. So you have to
guess how far past or before your mark you need so when it is fully in they line up.