efi is worth every penny. just to give you an idea i had a stock 12a turbo making 125 at the treads... did some mods changed the computer from a microtech d4(analogue) to a better one (wolf 2d).... doubled the power but kept the same fuel economy... up to 240 at the treads at 6km/l average... a good computer tuned properly works very well

convert to lpg ;) if you're in AU it's only $200 out of your pocket i hear. it's much cheaper and you save a lot ( yes big savings) on oil changes.

add a turbo, more efficiency if you behave...

LPG can be a good choice, however, to gain the pull potential from this fuel, it will be necessary to build an engine that reaps the benefit by design.
The simplest things to be aware of are the fact that a higher compression ratio than we are accustomed to will be desirable in order to release the full potential from every combustion. Something like 11 to 1 will suit LPG quite nicely, but this would rule out dual fuel operation.
Another is the fact that it is a 'dry' fuel & it offers no protection to valves or valve seats, so it will be necessary to ensure that both the exhaust valves, & the valve seats are compatible with LPG. No big deal, but something to be aware of at build up time.

You don't necessarily get more mileage from a litre of LPG, but the significant thing is that it costs so much less to buy that litre, so the cost per mile/kilometer IS significantly less.
Another upside to LPG, one that B210sleeper has already mentioned, is that oil changes are all but a thing of the past. LPG is also a very CLEAN fuel & oil contamination from the gas is almost non existant.

Those who reap the greatest benefit from it are those who amass big mileage, like Taxi's & commercial travelers. It's these people who allow their operational savings to pay for the LPG installation, then go on to bank the savings for every mile they drive.

valves and seats shouldn't be a problem unless you live somewhere that they are just phasing out leaded gas.

my two cents

a A series with good comp eg 9:1
good tuning eg EFI with a long runner manifold
spend some time on the head to make the power
and dont put a cam in

cam shaft selection is very important any cam that makes the engine idel rough will cost eccon

a nice set of pipes and

then if it dont have enough power use a toyota blower with a micro switch at 3/4 throttle

or you could take the $3000 and buy a ecconomic car drive it and have a fun little datto for the weekends

as dodgeman touched on earyler. look at gear ratios. standard 1000 utes have a 4.37:1 diff! That means(with standard size wheels) you will be revving at about 4000rpm+ when doing 100km/h! It sucks! I changed down from a 4.37:1 to a 4.11:1 out of a sedan and it makes a huge difference. Your doing about 500rpm less at each speed without a great loss of acceleration.

I do miss the 4.37:1 though... That had the perfect ratios to go around corners in 3rd and still have the revvs at peak power output. But it did suck for long trips.

yes im the same person mattorx7&matto1kute

i have a gx head (worked by jts) and twin su's and i have a A14 thats bored to suit A15 crank ect..
so far ive got a bluebired dizzy thats now atm getting turned down to suit A series. im thinking this is all i will need in a 1000 ute. i hear all what u guys are saying and i think its hard because of all the choices. but what can i do to this combo to make it the best i can.

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put a ca18det in it with all the upgrades & Park it in the garage and dont drive it!

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If you didn't have one too, I'd have thought you were talking about me.

I am bad at having a nice car and constantly having it off the road. That is soon to stop, as I will have all the parts (no excuses) to say it's finished.

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sorry to say it ... Honda