chances are thay wont look at transmission or even ask about it at the smaller country vic roads... they are a bit more relaxed usually.

as for a15, in stock form they put out more than 10% hp and torque so unless they dont opick up on it you wuill need an engieneers form a vc raods accreditioed car engineeer, but as your country, they may let you use the truck one (in the city its a no no)
as for they tray, they wont pick up on it if its still looks stockish or is covering the stock tray.

exhaust, who cares as long as not lound (steel wool is your friend).

good luck, as long as there is a legit rwc for it your should be home and hosed.

they never even check my old coupe... just waved me in saying looks ok.

hows your linkages mate, just thinking perhaps the throttles are not opening right up 100%? It's a long shot but worth thinking about
Also I just noticed it was quite cold coming home from night shift this morning and my carb doesnt have a choke, the engine wouldn't rev past 3500rpm until I got further down the road I could open it up to 6-7000rpm and pass trucks once the motor warmed up, maybe your engine needs to be warmed up before she will rev freely? how warm was your motor when you tested it?, Lets hope this mechanic will be of some help this time round

Is the mechanical advance in the Distributor working properly?

i dont have a timing light, but its brand new dizzy so there are no excuses.

i'm picking it up tomoro from the mechs so ill see what he had to say.

engine was warm. like i went for a put along the road then went to giv it a bit coming back and she dint have a bar of it. temp guage was almost half way by then.
temp guage hasnt got over half way. but nor should it...

linkages are fine. i can see them with the bonet off from the cabin and they are all working fine. i made sure i put the cable bracket in the right spot so it would open to WOT!!!

im sorry i dont have anymore updates on it yet. long weekend etc have slowed it down...

I just removed my dizzy cap (same Datrat's item like your's) to try and locate why my plugs go bad so quickly, and I have found something that could be related to your problem
inside the dizzy cap there is a gouge in the plastic and the contacts in the cap seem to be quite worn from the rotor button whizzing around grinding them away!, the motor has only done 4000km if that since the rebuild and I am thinking it could be the reason why I was losing spark. I kept replacing plugs with new ones of different heat ranges but they all seem to breakdown really soon. This must be the reason why, I am off to the auto shop to try and get a new cap and rotor button, will let you know how it goes

my problem has just been solved I used the old plugs that wouldn't let the motor rev to see if the plugs were actually bad and put the new cap and rotor in and it is as good as new

part number for cap was Bosche GB852
part number for rotor was Bosche GB851
the old cap had squared off parts in the cap thats why the rotor was grinding around the cap
total cost $38 woohoo can't believe I didn't see it before hope yours is the same problem as mine!
Also the recomended spark plugs for that dizzy in "A" series form is BP6ES-11 they have a 1.1mm gap which is what the dizzy is supposed to work with and the correct heat range too
Best of luck

ok. so i got it back from the second mechanic who claimed that it didnt start because it was out of fuel (however i put 20L in there the week i got it running, so it must have been drained at the 1st mechanics or somethin...).
anyway so i asked the 2nd mech to get it running and he did. he put 10bukcs of fuel in, charged me 20 bucks for it and told me to pick it up. he didnt actually fix the problem, but he got it running... shoddy bloody mechanics.

anyway i checked over it when i got it home:
pulled off the rotor cap and no marks on it, my cap doesnt have squared edges like your one Zane, so rotor cap is fine, rotor button was fine too.
i checked the terminal things in the cap to see if they had fouled or something but they were fine, they had white marks on them from the arc so there is good spark i concluded.

i checked the voltage at the +ve side of the coil, it was 12.6V so thats not the problem...

i pulled out the plugs and they were.... black... as in carbonised black, no oil or anything on them, just burnt fuel build up.
so they could be the problem. getting new ones to go in...

so i doubt other than the plugs that it is electrical.

my mechanic thinks that because the carbies are "too big" (his words not mine ) that because it isn't running an exhaust at the moment (i havent had time to make one (or the money) he thinks there isn't enough back pressure for the carbs to work properly...
i wasn't sure if this made snese to me. i thought that without an exhaust a N/A engine will rev harder, but not as well in low revs....

so im asking now for anyone who has run twin DCOEs before, did they run alright without an exhaust?

anyway. im now thinking that these carbs arent all that well tuned (sorry Craig ) because of
-the colour of the plugs.
-the fact it started very easy when cold, but hard when hot
-idles bad when hot
-doesnt rev past about 2500rpm
-there is fuel sitting in some of the wells on the carb when the engine is running (gaskets are shot i think)

but ill make the exhaust and then see what happens.

my uncle is coming over next weekend to have a look at it. hes a mechanic that actually does work. ive learnt most of what i know off him...
see if he cant get it running.

Craig had this engine in his coupe race car and the only exhaust on that was a 2 1/2" pipe sticking out behind the passengers door not much of a full system though?
It has to be the plugs surely?
Mines playing up again I have had enough of dattos this month

Quote:

Be careful before changing the tune on the carbs as it was set up by Jeff Taylor and then given a final tune on a dyno where it produced 106rwhp. I saw this engine do exactly the same thing before and it was fouled plugs. Provided no one else has played with it since Craig sold it then it is ready to run. The carbs have been rebuilt and it is likely that the flooding you are seeing is as a result of fuel delivery to wet plugs. Your lack of an exhaust is also not an issue - there is minimal back pressure with extractors and a side pipe anyway. This little motor absolutely hammers and I can assure you that the carbs are not TOO BIG. I drove it on the track and it is an impressive set up. Look forward to hearing your report when you get it running.

I sorta guessed that the exhaust wasn't the problem. i plan to make a 2.5" stainless with just a cannon muffler at the rear.

anyway. ill make sure i get these new plugs asap! Thanks for the reasurance everyone!