A rear sway will make the rear even more skatier...I dont run a rear sway on my race car. The skatieness is caused by a) you need more rear track and b) you need more neg camber in the back currently it would be neutral. This can achieved cheaply by running a weld over the top of the axle housing which "bends" it up and can give up to 1 degree neg. Also a bit more grip using a good tyre like a yoko A048 will help immensely too.

Converted, how much extra wear will the bend in the housing put on the axle and diff bearings? Is it hard to get the axles in and out after the bend?

I have a corolla Ke55 BW diff im setting up for my car at the moment, it has been locked and new bearings and seals throughout.

Yes to all questions...or you can what has been done to my racer. Cut and shut the axle housing and put 1 degree into the housing. Then make a diff centre and with 2 x Porsche 930 turbo CV's bolted together and use then to take the load away from the carrier bearings... est cost $4k

Sounds cool converted, got any pics of the diff?

Where do the porsche CV's go and how do you fit them? there must be a fair amount of custom work in there.

i ran a 22mm rear sway bar for a bit coz i had it.....cant say i went fast enough for it to oversteer, and it was an open diff so it lifted the inside rear wheel when i did go fast around corners

took it out coz it kept hitting the body when i went over bumps, the sway bar bent over the diff

Gx1200
What times were you doing at Mallala? I wanted to head out there, but the ute didnt.

Anti-sway bars need to be installed as a set in conjunction with springs. I'm using a 7/8 ths front and a 5/8th rear (22mm front 16mm rear) This set-up is just on the edge, if the track is wet I disconnect the rear bar.

Check the setup manual on here get some more negative camber (easy to do by modding the top of the strut tower per the set-up manual) and if the car does need bars get a set.


I use the softer spring with bars to control the roll approach. As for some of the other set up's I can see how ,depending on springs , a rear bar would not be needed.
Also get a book on handling, this will avoid a lot of heartache........a car with big oversteer is begging for trouble, get the car neutral after that you can concentrate on the techniques that will allow you the driver to intiate under steer or oversteer.

Tom

Tom

On my 1200 racer I used 240Z front springs (cut roughly in half as I recall) and stock rear springs. I used a stock front bar and had done the items that are outlined in the handling book from Nissan/ Datsun that you can download on this site. The only place that I deviated was the installation of a rear panhard bar that was adjustable. This permitted me to raise and lower the roll center to compensate for immediate conditions. The combination of the adjustable front camber and the panhard bar allowed for about the amount of adjustment that a novice with one friend at the track for crew can accomplish and I found this to allow the 1200 racer to handle quite well. A car had to have a bunch bigger tires and 200+ more horsepower to leave me behind in the truly twisty stuff.

Thankyou for all of your replies, My car currently has at
The back: 2" lowered (new) springs with standard (new) shocks. It also has a pair of helper springs to stop the spring twisting up and the diff centre hitting the body!

The front: MADDAT adjustable spring platforms and camber tops. 175lb springs and new shocks. standard sway bar

Nolathane through out

After reading these replies and having a bit of a think about it. I have come up with a few answers to my dilemer.

The front: Adjustable control arms for more camber. Bigger sway bar. About an inch drop in height

The rear: An adjustable pan hard rod, after inspecting the car, there is some rubbing on the tyre/ guard on one side only, maybe I need to "true up" where the diff sits?

Hope this all makes sense


P.s. my times wern't that quick ( 1:32) but I had a ball. Hopefully there will be some pics up soon of some sideways action

Cheers. Adam.