Hey all.
I have been wondering this for a while and the only way to find out really is ask.
I heard about locking distributors for turbo applications. What does that mean exactly.
Is it just setting it at a certain timing and then locking it from machanically advancing?
Why do you want to lock it in the first place? something to do with detonation i presum.
Is it possible to run one without locking the dizzy?
Im assuming the setup is a draw through turbo setup.

Also another thing im keen to figure out is the oil route for the turbo? where it come from and go.

Just trying to clear up a few things before i start seriously getting into this.

Cheers and thanks for any help i get.
chris

i have locked the dizzys in my setups

pull the top out of the dizzy, and weld it solid

this stops mechanical advance

as when boost comes on stronger you generaly want to retard boost to avoid detonation/pinging

i even had the vacuum advance on one modified (reversed to some degree) to actually be boost retard instead

basically you can see the effect of mechanical advance if you hold the bottom cog on the base of the dizzy solid and with other hand turn the rotor button, you will be able to turn the rotor a certain amount.

oil lines...

you t-piece the oil pressure sender unit feed (at the oil pump), one end to the sender unit still, the other needs to be plumbed accross to your turbo to feed oil accross

for the return oil it is best to drill the sump and weld on a little fitting for a hose, and run your oil return from the turbo back into the sump that way

(draw through or blow through makes no diffrence to the above)

wow thanks rally car.
It helps a lot.
And timing, is it just trial till you get it going good and then locking it at that timing? or is there a certain point ?
Feeling much more confident in my ability to produce the setup now, those little things were making me doutful. doesnt sound so hard tho.

Yep youve got it, you lock the advance plate so it cannot advance from where you set the base timing. You can also run firmer springs so it doesnt advance as quickly, also disconnecting the vacuum advance. Also you can shorten the advance slots so it cannot advance past a certain point.

I have removed the vacuum advance for my webers so it will mechanically advance from base timing of 17

i've never heard of locking it for non turbo applications... thats interesting.
This is good info. hope its helping others out there besides me. maybe these little bits of into should find its way to the wiki

timing it is up to you really

reason you need to worry about advance and stuff is that you may or may not want timing to change under different conditions (revs, boost, vacuum basically)

and being turbo it needs to act different to naturally aspirated

im not going to tell you how to set it up in a post, i have had mine tuned by different workshops and stuff (with injection) but before that when it was carby i had the boost retard dizzy built for the job, then that was as simple as put it in at the recommended place and it did the rest for me (probably the best way to do it safe)

the hose to the sump would have had to been a return.... unless he added a pump to draw it up

the way i suggested is the way to go

Well if you can imagine you have base timing on a stock A12 at 7

yea kapow cant be good.
I see where you are coming from though.
Thanks for your thoughts guys.
Anything else on the subject?

What about carbs on a draw through setup.
Im looking at a 2" SU carb for this setup im invisoning. i would just make a flange to the carb and weld in a bit of tube and then use a bit of piping to the turbo.
Anyone have any thought on setting up the carb for turbo? i'd assum it would have to have a lot richer tune for the turbo.

i havent done suck through so not sure about setting up carby really

was just thinking, possibly better to connect between carb and turbo with rubber to avoid heat transfer to carb as much as possible (from your description i got the impression it was going to be metal to metal)

what turbo? what size motor?

how you doing exhaust manifold?