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Any turbo should be spinning even at idle.

If you have a turbo that's not moving at idle then it's stuffed!

i believe locking the dissy applies to both points and electronic systems, it involves welding the dissy so the timing is set at a fixed amount wether the car be at idle or full boost 6500rpm. This way your timing wont run away at full boost on you causing pinging and associated head gaskets and rings etc. Unfortunatelly i have never welded a dizzy the shop did mine as part of setting up the computer and tune, if someone had some pics that would be great.

With draw through i have found that the system works a lot better if the turbo is small enough that the impella wheel spins at idle, this way fuel dosnt tend to puddle in the compressor housing resulting in a rich stumble when you crack open the throttle after idling for a while. Also make sure the carby is verticle or slanding slightly down into the compressor inlet or fuel will puddle in the lowest point, mount the carby as close to the turbo as possible too. For a budget approach i reckon use the stocka inlet manifold make a flange for it and piping from compressor outlet to the flange were the original carby used to be. If you dont want to pay for a carbon seal a budget approach would be to remove the throttle from your carby and run a small throttle body mounted to your standard inlet manifold so there is no vaccum to suck out the oil from the seals, you cant run a choke either though. Might have to build a budget kit for my white sedan when i upgrade my turbo some day!

What needles/jets are you guys running in your SU's?

Hey Topgear some nice info there, does the locking of the dizzy also apply for electronic ?? or just old school points.

A J-pipe will seal ok, you just need to make sure that you put 1 or 2 braces where the turbo mounts so its not relying on the 2 flange nuts to hold it up, the braces support the turbo instead.

I ran a H145 in my turbo car with 100kw atw with no worries. If your mature enough to "NOT DO BURNOUTS!!" it will be ok

Like Dodgeman says... J-pipe, SU carbie, small turbo... job done...

Maybe I should make some kits and sell them?? Its not that hard...

Also with people who have blown head gaskets on low boost... did you lock the dissy so there is no mechanical advance, so when revs and boost increase it reduces detonation and stops from blowing head gaskets?????

just get a 3bolt exhaust, they arent that hard to find

J pipes r simple but how do u seal up the exhaust flange {Crappy 2 bolt P.O.S} as surely the weight of the turbo would make the bloody thing leak and there goes your boost?? Luv to see a few photo,s of J pipes!!

Man, thats about as basic as it gets, but the blow through like this is frought with potential problems.
If the throttle shaft is worn, it blows fuel & air out into the engine bay. The gaskets were not designed for boost & will very likely leak after a while, depending on how much boost is used, & finally, the carb needs a solid float, ... & a rising rate reg with a high pressure pump will be a good idea.

Personally, when you remember that the heading here is "Cheapest Turbo setup" I think that the simple suck through design is the go. Use a tried & true SU from the Trading Post or other second hand source.
Forget the intercooler as they cost money & defeat the budget-build criteria. Mount the turbo on a J pipe & keep the boost down so as to avoid high inlet temps which leads to detonation & ruined engines. Now that just plain defeats the whole budget concept.

Simple fact is that a very tuneable 1-1/2" SU in front of a modest sized & inexpensive turbo pushing only 5 to 7 psi into a stock 1200 will still impress as the little carb is seeing a constant airflow & not a pulse flow, so it will still perform well & is cheap as chips since nobody really wants them anymore. No carb mods required, no high pressure pump, no fuel regulator, ..... bloody perfect.

If the car is not outright abused, even the humble H145 diff can survive if reasonably narrow tyres are used.
Remember that lowest price is the only stated criteria here, not blinding performance.

http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=13010

If u go suck through it will cost around $300 to carbon seal turbo. go with blow through and spend $130 on a carter fuel pump. I would retinsion the headbolts b4 boosting or get a headshim as mine blow the head gasket after 2days on 5psi.