James,

Sounds like fun! It should be one quick 1000 when your finished! A good clutch is a must. I have a stock one in at the moment and it slips bigtime. Took it for a long drive today and it just
slips 5500rpm plus. The 5 speed is going well at the moment, when i find a toyota box i will sell u this one but i need other things first.

If your going to go for forged pistons are u going to bore it out pretty big aswell? I would be for sure. If your going to use the stock cam and an A15 crank, it will be pretty tourqey 2000+
i would think?

Fester, you can only get 3" in mandrel bends. 2.5" is the biggest u can press bend. About the cost im not 100% on the difference. If i were to do James exhaust in 3" i would think it would
cost roughly $1000+. In 2.5" mandrel, around the $800 mark and press 2.5" around $600. This is still just a guess cause i dont quote. I guess 3" has the most potential for max hp as it flows
best but is it worth the $$? Thanks Mareo for clearing that up about the back pressure! Its all clear and makes sense now! cyas

Scott
Davo

When I put the 3" in my car, I bought a few pieces of mandrel bent 90 degree, 45 degree, and 180 degree angles and some long straight pipes and welded sections together and built the exhaust
system piece by piece by stacking one onto the other. It was less than a third of the price of a shop doing it. I used the 1 3/4" piping from the stock A14 exhaust manifold to the turbo and
the 3" from the turbo to the rear. From the rear axle back, I Y'ed it off into duals. It looked cool with the dual 3" exhaust out the back and sounded like an Indy car. It made everyone turn
their heads and look to se where the strange noise was coming from. I didn't use a muffler at all, the turbo quietened it down enough to keep the police off of me. I have pictures of it
someplace but I do not know which box of pictures they are in. I will post them when I find them. I have hundreds of thousand of photos that I have taken over the years of the whole world so
finding them will take time. I am sorting and scanning my photos all of the time and putting them onto CD's. I have been an avid photographer since I was a kid, sometimes doing 30 rolls of
film a day during a race, musical, or other event.
Back pressure is only needed if the cam warrants it. A good high RPM cam does not need any back pressure at all. Back pressure is for street torque at low RPMs.

The first motor that I turbocharged was a 1968 Datsun 2000 Roadster. It had 13:1 compression and it was limited to 7 pounds boost. That made a lot of Horsepower and held together real
well. I had the 1965 Pontiac GTO and the 2000 would run with it off the line and on top end over 150 MPH. Lower compression is used to get a more boost but is sluggish. Higher compression
gives great lows but the boost is limited to staying low. Total power is about the same. Give me the higher compression and lower boost any time.

I have an idea in reference to turbo, A-14/A-15's.
The '79 thru '82 Datsun 210's (B310 or Sunny)in North America(& possibly elsewhere), were all emmissions spec with recessed combustion chambers & EGR. (Exhaust Gas Recirculation), built
into the cylinder heads. They had A12A's & A14's & A15's. All of these type of heads that I've seen would be useless for non turbo performance use, because of their low compression ratio.
They do however have the larger valves & oval ports just like a 'GX' cylinder head. Their pistons also have a recessed dish on top. Stock with no mods their compression might be a little
high for turbo use. But if one was to open up the combustion chambers in the head ,(there appears to be lots of material to grind away), one might be able to get a decent comression ratio
& flow for turbo use without having to use special pistons.(The EGR ports could simply be blocked off). If I can borrow a scanner,I'll try to post pictures of the head that I have.

I bought one of those o2 sensor air/fuel kits from jaycar. www.jaycar.com.au.
It appears to be calibrated to a certain type of o2 sensor, as I get very different behaviour between a CA18 and SR20 o2 sensor.
I haven't connected mine since, and I'd like to be able to calibrate it with an mechanic's accurate one to figure out whether
it's telling the truth.

Chris.