might seem like more work but why not go Ca20
they can be sourced for very little and when it blows up you have all the bits ready to drop in a twin cam

stock bw will easilly cope with a mild l20b. Mine puts up with the turbo donk no dramas and i give i ####e

stock 120y BW should hold up fine, seems as thats what comes in most 200b's and stanzas

if i do go ahead with the swap ill just be using the L18 from the parts car ill be buying. im not going to try and find a L20.
with the diff, do you think it will hold up with L18 and the occasional clutch kick? it is my daily so it doesnt get driven too hard. what diff do you recomend? i dont really want to spend much on it

I keep pondering the L swap myself, I see one on ebay all rebuilt for like $750 and i think I have a 120Y with big brakes, ignition and fuel system that would swap over easily... then I remember it'll still cost a heap more than I have, and my A15 makes me pretty happy, not the grin i get with a turbo, but that's in the works,just need $$$ but less $$$$ than the L swap. Can't get much worse milage, maybe better, but all my cars get bad milage since i'm a lead foot.

The L series motors are great, i have had both twin webber and turbo charged L series and they don't dissapoint.
Even thoe at the moment i have an A14, i still miss the L series and would concider the L20 as my next 1200 project motor after a SR or FJ20.
See what the engineers and my wallet say!

I remember hearing vaugely that the L18 has a much wider/better torque curve than the L20B - never really got into L series yet....I bet the Ozdat/datnet guys would no a lot better.

for L20 motor, you either reverse the x-member as was commonly done by the 510 crowd, or swap sumps on the motor which also means you need to make the dipstick fit the new sump position.

Use the short/stumpy boxes - Stanza and MR30 Skyline and you shouldn't have any problem with speedo drives

oh and my early 120Y (1974) does not have a hole in the clutch pedal, not that that's a big deal.

so here's a question I've been thinking about for a while, would the 180B crossmember need to be notched\ modded for a L20 motor?

120y is probably the easiest car ive ever seen to convert to hydro clutch, studs are there to suit a 180b clutch master, hole is already in the pedal to suit all you have to do is get a hole saw and cut a hole

180b tailshaft is to short, if you get a stanza sss gearbox or an r30 stumpy then you would most likely be able to use an auto tailshaft to suit the 120y BW

but tailshaft isnt really a hard thing to work out once the engines in