Yes but its like anything you get what you pay for,
What happens if your $150 boost controller has a bit of a miss fire and your engine that is ment to run 15 pound spikes at 25 and goes pop,Rebuild time
Well worth the money if you want an electric one but myself, i wouldnt take the risk on some no name and thats how the cars been built, i like to only do things once.

yeah,

i know what u mean n i'm much the same..
guess that's y i'm askin 4 other advice...

always better 2 b safe right

yep

other thing is the turbosmart 1 is also a basically a tacho...

got a tacho, just want a boost controller...

if it wasn't also a tacho it'd b cheaper...

Spewin...

I've got a jaycar unit. I installed in on my old FJ20 blluebird but haven't fitted it yet to my CA18. They are effective but have their limitations. Because they are not a closed loop system like the top of the range stuff they usually end up giving different boost levels in different driving conditions. It's hard to explain but it takes it's input from the injector duty cycle and uses that to reference a duty cycle for the solenoid output from the map you program. Unfortunately it doesn't consider engine rpm and for this reason it becomes unstable because the same engine load (or duty cycle value) can be found at different rpm depending on driving conditions and gear etc. This means that the same solenoid output is used in different conditions giving different boost levels. They are easy to tune for Wide open throttle for the race track where you are using the same rev range for all gears but as soon as you try to use them on the street where you might put your foot down in 5th doing 2500rpm ,for example, they don't work. They store 2 maps which is useful and one can be set to stock which you could use on the street and not have any of the aforementioned problems and just use the higher setting on the track. But as mentioned earlier we all know the low boost setting quickly becomes obsolete!

I had heard that Jaycar were working a feedback unit for the kit which would be well worth looking at as it may fix the problems.

If you are going to splash out on a decent EBC then it might be worth considering the Eboost2. They are a bit cheaper than the jap brands and give good results.

hey Daveman thanks 4 the input,

that's the kinda info i was chasing...
i liked the fact the jaycar unit didn't effect the air fuel ration n that...

is that true?

My guess is that it would effect the air/fuel ratio a fair bit as it is stuffing a bunch more air into the engine and they definitely don't continually check the air/fuel ratio from the oxygen sensor - so they run open loop.


I think you would have to tune it yourself with an oxygen sensor up the exhaust to guarantee safe air/fuel ratios.

In relation to the Air fuel ratios, it doesn't matter which boost controller you use to make extra boost, your mixtures are completely reliant on the tune in the computer. You can run 12psi on an electronic boost controller or manual bleed valve and the mixtures will be the same. They say the manual bleed valves are no good because they release "metered" air but it's a negligible amount. Don't let that issue sway your decision.

You can build your own manual bleed valve as outlined earlier and you can minimise the amount of air it releases by using a tight restricter as close as possible to the wastegate actuator and have the bleeder jet after that.

Here is another one you might consider.

World Motorsports

If you are interested in more info, let me know as I have some in stock

I have just installed one on the race car, but I am yet to test it...... If you are interested, let me know and I will work out a special price for you in return for some feedback.

Cheers.

Hey guys thanks 4 the help it