I've got a jaycar unit. I installed in on my old FJ20 blluebird but haven't fitted it yet to my CA18. They are effective but have their limitations. Because they are not a closed loop system like the top of the range stuff they usually end up giving different boost levels in different driving conditions. It's hard to explain but it takes it's input from the injector duty cycle and uses that to reference a duty cycle for the solenoid output from the map you program. Unfortunately it doesn't consider engine rpm and for this reason it becomes unstable because the same engine load (or duty cycle value) can be found at different rpm depending on driving conditions and gear etc. This means that the same solenoid output is used in different conditions giving different boost levels. They are easy to tune for Wide open throttle for the race track where you are using the same rev range for all gears but as soon as you try to use them on the street where you might put your foot down in 5th doing 2500rpm ,for example, they don't work. They store 2 maps which is useful and one can be set to stock which you could use on the street and not have any of the aforementioned problems and just use the higher setting on the track. But as mentioned earlier we all know the low boost setting quickly becomes obsolete!

I had heard that Jaycar were working a feedback unit for the kit which would be well worth looking at as it may fix the problems.

If you are going to splash out on a decent EBC then it might be worth considering the Eboost2. They are a bit cheaper than the jap brands and give good results.

other thing is the turbosmart 1 is also a basically a tacho...

got a tacho, just want a boost controller...

if it wasn't also a tacho it'd b cheaper...

Spewin...

yep

yeah,

i know what u mean n i'm much the same..
guess that's y i'm askin 4 other advice...

always better 2 b safe right

Yes but its like anything you get what you pay for,
What happens if your $150 boost controller has a bit of a miss fire and your engine that is ment to run 15 pound spikes at 25 and goes pop,Rebuild time
Well worth the money if you want an electric one but myself, i wouldnt take the risk on some no name and thats how the cars been built, i like to only do things once.

yeah,

i aint gonna be touchin it atm since just been dyno'd

i'm lookin more at when i increase injector size n decide 2 run more boost...

just wonderin what other peoples opinions r n what experiences they have had with what brands...

they F@#KIN $$ though...

turbosmart e-boost 2 RRP: $895.00 (can get em 4 $715 but still )

where as this 1:

Digital Pulse Adjuster





The kit is just AUD$79.95 with the Hand Controller another AUD$59.95.

Quote:

Once the cars tuned to the max boost the car can run, theres is really no need for an expensive electronic boost controller really as long as you keep an eye on the air temp and watch for boost spike in the cold you shouldnt really need to touch it,
After all, thats why we pay the money to put it on the dyno......
Thats my 2 cents

looks a bit nice there davo $$$$

My personal fav is a AEM tru boost controller, I've had nothing but good experiences with these, and they double up as a gauge. The only down side is that the numbers are hard to read sometimes during the day. And did I mention how simple they are to change the boost on, hit the left button to lower the boost, and the right one to increase it. Just don't get out of hand or you'll be in real trouble.

Now the debate over what is better as far as manual VS electronic is never ending. Personally I like electronic, it's a little more work to install if you dislike electrical, but at the touch of a button you have control over your boost, and theres no guess work on what boost your going to be running. Manuals on the other hand work fine and can be made for under 20 bucks, most of the toyota MR2 guys use them at 15 PSI and just run that all day long. Just turn the boost up a little at a time when installing a MBC (manual boost controller)
How to make a MBC

i would only go turbosmart in an electronic.