daveman, when you do the r31 sway bar let us know how it goes as ive been thinking the same thing about the r31 sway bar ive got sitting in the shed

just needs its bend extended down a bit to take up the extra width

Quote:

yeah spot on. I'll let you know but unfortunately I'm having trouble getting my hands on an oxy to bend it! I already wrecked one trying to heat it in a fire! Tried to do it oldschool!

I just got one custom made through Pedders cost me $220, it was a 1200/120y bar, 20mm with 1 inch extra dip.
Clears the sump nicely.

so daveman your just going to heat it with the oxy, bend it to the shape then you get it heat treated or something dont you?

as i just relied on the press to do all the bending for my rear one, but that didnt need to be bend as much as the r31 one does

Provided you don't go too hot, you can heat swaybar steel and bend it without having to re-heat treat it. It is low enough carbon content that air cooling does not change it's properties. If you quenched it in oil etc it would have to be heat treated but there is no reason why you would.

I got a custom one made for about $200 as neither the 1200 or 120Y bar cleared the CA sump.
Matty

I wonder what was so different about mine that it clears....does anyone else have a crossmember from Andrew D?

mine mightn fit cause my ngine is sitting back on the firewall my gear box isnt up yet when i do that ill see how i go

Quote:
The reason why it clears is that the front of engine sits 30mm lower (recessed crossmember) so engine can sit further back the engine /gearbox is on less of an angle so the whole setup sits around 15-20m further back.
I found the standard swaybar more than upto the task!!! with good struts and a brace they do most the susspension work. Why go bigger if not really needed??
Cheers Andrew

Hi Andrew, do you mean the standard 1200 one or 120y?

Cheers