Provided you don't go too hot, you can heat swaybar steel and bend it without having to re-heat treat it. It is low enough carbon content that air cooling does not change it's properties. If you quenched it in oil etc it would have to be heat treated but there is no reason why you would.

so daveman your just going to heat it with the oxy, bend it to the shape then you get it heat treated or something dont you?

as i just relied on the press to do all the bending for my rear one, but that didnt need to be bend as much as the r31 one does

I just got one custom made through Pedders cost me $220, it was a 1200/120y bar, 20mm with 1 inch extra dip.
Clears the sump nicely.

Quote:

yeah spot on. I'll let you know but unfortunately I'm having trouble getting my hands on an oxy to bend it! I already wrecked one trying to heat it in a fire! Tried to do it oldschool!

daveman, when you do the r31 sway bar let us know how it goes as ive been thinking the same thing about the r31 sway bar ive got sitting in the shed

just needs its bend extended down a bit to take up the extra width

EDIT: Pics

i think it would be slightly higher i got maddat engine mounts. .

What crossmember are you using?

My swaybar clears the sump (in a 1200 coupe though).

I've got a crossmember put together by Andrew - maybe his mounts slightly further back.

I've been looking into an upgrade myself.

The avenue I'm going down is modifying a 1inch R31 skyline swaybar. It only needs narrowing by about 3-4 inches and the extra width can be bent into the lower part to clear the sump. The lengths from the chassis mount to the pin ends are spot on.

i wouldnt hit the sump with a hammer, scott from maddat in the process of making custom ones look into that.