Thanks for the reply fellas, so the summary is that stock crossmember, custom mounts (possibly stanza) and just use a jack to widen the tunnel is the go to fit the gearbox.

240k brake master for the brakes.

Is there any other stock nissan control arm that bolts on that is longer (for camber on the front).

Quote:

The first way I set a 120Y up years ago was in the mid 90's after fast fours ran a tip of how to do it with the 180B parts. I got all excited and did a conversion. I couldn't use the sway bar and I had massive neg camber probs that I had to sort with adj control arms. It drove well but when I pushed it through corners the wheel was always jerking which I later found out was bump steer. I tries to resolve the matter with a modified sway bar but no glory.

The reason was that the control arm mounts on the x member were 50mm further out than where the tie rods started making the control arms shorter than the tie rods causing uneven travel through the pivot points causing the bump steer.

Same conversion 10 years later I decided to try a different way and as nobody could give me any decent advice I went my own way and Voila... No bump steer any more.

make the things thats what i do

Quote:

don't know how you managed to end up with massive neg camber either. this was my old 120Y with 180B x-member - no camber issues here. using stanza/girlock strut, gemini springs.



unfortunately in my x-member photos on this site you can't see the 120Y's control arm pivot point. 120Y x-member left, 180B right



120Y swaybar fits no problem at all.

Anyone know if the 180b control arms bolt to the stock 120y crossmember?

nope. the 180B uses large pins at the pivot instead of the smaller bolts the 120Y uses.

revhead is right about the LCA pivots and bump steer. 120Y x-member measures ~530mm from pivot to pivot, and 180B measures 580mm. that's definitely a problem! thanks for the info revhead

might have to look at also using 180B drag link, or just modify the engine mount saddles on the 120Y x-member as revhead did.

If you retain the stock Xmember, you could use B310 bottom arms and castor rods. This will enable the use of the longer bottom ball joints making the bottom arms about 10mm longer. Then you'll have to use struts with the wider bolt spacing at the bottom though such as b310, 910 or 280xz. Probably not a bad idea with the extra weight of the motor though.