5W-40 is going to be to thin for the A series, and you'll be hearing a lot of tappet noise. For R100 a pop on Havoline 20W-50 I would even say change the oil every 6 months if you could, you'll be paying R200 for 2 oil changes, which is less than what you'll be paying for the synthetic. You don't have to change the filter every time though, every second time would be sufficient, though at R28 a pop, you might as well...
You are actually answering yourself in one of you earlier comments. The car is not being driven much, and that causes petrol and moisture to build up in the pan and system. So even if the oil might be fine, it could be contaminated enough with said elements, that it doesn't lubricate the engine properly. Only frequent longish trips would abolish enough contaminants that the oil would be restored to it's original state, which I don't se happening in you case.
Honestly, knowing you as a "worrier", I would have expected you to ask how many oil changes per year are to many...
You should also rather run at least a 10W-60 or something similar on you Almera, it must have a higher upper sealing than 40 whatever you get. Remember, the 5W-40 won't have such a high temperature tolerance as the one I mentioned, and you might find that the oil pressure starts falling on those very hot Free-State days.
Those oils are meant for very cold climates where you don't get 30-40 degree heat, and thicker oils would cause hard starting and high wear.
A little of the topic, my dad used to race oval track cars. They would rebuild the engine, fit the sump and weld the drain plug shut, for fear of it vibrating loose. I remember one time they raced a whole season without changing the oil once, simply because that would require the sump to be removed. On those old Ford Kent engines they didn't use valve stem seals either, so it used oil fast enough that they had to fill it up with about 500ml of oil after each meeting, which sort of ensured that it had a semi permanent oil change...
