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why cant you can just drill 3 (extra) holes
dazza

Thanks very much everyone this is all extremely helpful!

Quote:

Yeah your dead right dazza1200. With a 13mm stud hole you will end up with 4.95mm between two of the holes so you could just redrill and don't need to reweld my bad.

how do you go about shortening the hilux diff and getting the centre to end up in the centre, as it needs to be shortened around 100mm and this would all need to taken from one axle would it not?

are there wider diffs that you can use the axles from to get the pinion centred again?

this is the good thing about the BW78, you can swap axles and shorten the longer one to end up with the pinon in pretty much the same place as stock

i think cruiser axles are the same spline, not 100% sure
they have offset centre in some models so one would be real long!
mine is an RN40 diff and the axles look a little short to get the new splines past the step
(but also have RN86 which is longer)
dazza

cruisers up to 60series have full floating axles(i think thats what they are called, axle is seperate from the hub)...so they would be no good

Axle choice is varied, late model Hilux were a wider diff again so you could use those axles to eliminate the step problem. This is an area i've not investigated as mine will fit without shortening.
Silky 1200 wagon has a hilux diff in it but his is probably tubed so would be happy with the narrower diff.

Either way, the hilux diff is a great option. Especially if you are doing track work as being a banjo type arrangement it is alot easier for the 'averege joe' to change the ratio. Sailsburys req an experienced touch unless you have another housing that is good to go. And as pointed out before they are equal in weight to a large BW give or take stuff all grams. But you have the added bonus of cheaper detroit lockers, air lockers, readily available spares and a better lsd arrangement (clutch instead of cone)

do u think the hilux diff will be good on my sr20det engine or is it to much powerfull for that