I found some good reading on rear leaf spring set up and R&D on the Ford Escort to stop axle tramp .
http://www.rsmotorsport.com.au/forums ... light=axle+tramp&start=20

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I sure am, next time you have the whole lot out, look at 30+ years worth of wear on those chassis to shackle bushes (f/knows what the correct name is for them) and you can see how much it all moves.

mmm something i have to add to the holiday list of stuff to do, make a set of those bushes

If its any help as to how a coupe sits with John's springs, here is a pic of my coupe. tyres are 195 /55 /15 on 15 X 6. H165 Housing with no lowering blocks.

Also for guys with utes I think from memory it's difficult to run reverse eye on the front eye of the leaf. But saying that I think John is able to offer reverse eye on the rear eye only for utes.

I do rate these springs, they are not too stiff and allow the car to move

Benny - have you got any lateral location bars under your car? Panhard/Watts etc...?

hi all these springs are sensational for the road and especially the track.
You need no sway or panhard with them. i took on may expensively setup watts link rears and i could drive right by them with a little 100hp a series around corners.
These springs are WELL worth it and they arent off the shelf items they are custom made. the archilles heel in the 1200 is that you do need rear camber in the live axle setup. my last coupe had 1 degree built into the housing and this stopped high speed mid corner twitching the 1200's are prone to.
these spring radically sort out the rear end on any 1200 coupe. they also eliminate axle tramp with anything under 250hp. over the you would need an extra leaf.
the bushes would be extra as well as the shock but for around 800-odd dollars to sort the rear end for good you cant go past that value. (i coudnt anyway)
I would probably go for a spax rear shock which is on-car adjustable...makes it a bit easier for setup. The konis were great though..you had to take them off the car to adjust them.
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Good news converted

I think I might look into the whole rear so shocks and some new bushes on both leaf shackles too.

Do you still remember all the part numbers? Or could we get JTS to supply all new bushes too?

Also I like the sound of on car adjustable shocks - I might check out these spax shocks.

Thanks for the advice!

Now that I can see light at the end of the tunnel (CA coupe nearly done) I'm already thinking about suspension....

IMO the JTS springs are too soft on their own. You get too much body roll. you loose all your static camber, and thanks to the strut front end's poor dynamic control of roll centres, that goes haywire as well. So in long sweepers you get a car that by mid corner behaves totally differently than it did when you turned in. And you still have the most important part of the corner to go - the exit... where you start to really try to get on the power, transferring more weight to the rear and compounding the problem! Turn 2 at QR is nasty in my coupe - doesn't help that there is a massive bump right on the apex.

Its not such a problem on short, low speed corners as the shock helps initially, the loads generated aren't as great, and you can set the car up in the first half of the corner to overcome the problems. Can't do that in long sweepers, you're stuck with what your setup gives you by mid corner.

What else can we do?

Add a sway bar?

Or is it the solution to go with a 4 link setup and forget the leaves altogether?

Would these springs be suitable for the heavier 120Y coupe?