well that article-experiment makes it obvious why u would want one for max hp, is there anything else available off the shelf for a-series. think all i have seen so far is turbo bolted straight onto stock cast iron manifolds.

D if all goes well this i will get an ay12 head of mikko in finland and will make a nice equal length manifold
i will be running a bb garret gt30 the specs are
GT30
705867-0001
700177-0015
compressor
hsg a/r: 0.70
wheel trim: 56
model: TO4S
wheel dia: 2.25/3.00
hp rating: 480
comp flow lb's: 55
turbine
hsg a/r: 0.63
wheel trim: 84
wheel dia: 2.16/2.36
probably will be fairly laggy but ill save on fuel when its off boost

1000 coupe - The article makes it obvious that its for max power after 5k that you would use an ELT manifold. The LogT Manifold beats it before 5k. Most people spend upto 90% under 5k everyday.

1000wags - Youll be offboost most of the time then you wont need a turbo :)

well i dont really see this turbo spooling up till atleast 4500 5000 so im going equal length

youll need an a15 block with a12 forged crank and long rods to make sure your rod stroke ratio is way up there so you dont suffer from side loading on the bores and tear apart you block.

Best keep the 1mm overbore otherwise you will crack the bores at high boost.

204.1 deck height
140.15mm length rods from e15 with 40mm crankpin mod
(original rods on a15 are 133mm and sr20de r 136mm!!!)
2.0 rod stroke ratio F1 anyone?
1304cc
77mm bores
28.5 comp height forged pistons.

Look at the e15et rods the e15 are the same but longer - absolute over engineering.




I can just imagine your powerband over 5 and all the way to 9k rpm

D sounds very intresting i am planing on running the boost at around 15-18psi for street and upwards of 20 for when i want max performance
naturally im going to need custom pistons due to the ay12 head
and i would presume you need to offset ground the a12 crank?
and also was going to be full custom made internals but looking at how beefy those e15 rods are i dont think i would have to do the rods
hmmm another thing having a motor that will rev out to 9k obviously the bottom end will suffer but i spose i could just tune it so its a bit better down low as i am going full fuel/spark control unless i get one of those toyota superchargers that have the electric clutch when boost hits it switches off
hmm just the thought of the power potential and its going into nissans lightest rwd car oh man it will be a handfull

you only need to offset grind the crankpins from 45 to 40mm at the same time, I got quoted 175aud.
I think youll need the whole hog though eg. re-treating the surfaces and full balance. Start with the non fully counterweight crank and maybe do your own knife edging with an angle grinder and have it finished off by crank specialists. Feral has some nice pics up on his site for reference.

Double valve springs and normal cleaned up oval port head with sodium filled valves and heat proof coatings.

There are plenty of A15 in lesser guises and worse rod/stroke ratios that make 8k rpm reliably.
At 9k a 1300cc long rod a15/a12 hybrid well balanced with 2 to 1 rod/stroke ratio will do it nicely.

started to make a new manifold i might to tilt the motor to get it in there nice
will get more pics soon

hmmm sounds interesting, I am sure that there will be a few people who would be keen for one if you decide to make a few.
Im one, and I am sure dundee1000 wont be able to help himself...

i think id have to include the mounts to tilt the engine and its for a highly worked motor