I mounted the "economy" wheel/tire package [155/80R13's @ 50 psi] today. Next, I installed my home made chin spoiler [cut from a scrap Ford Contour front bumper cover] and blended in the edges with tape. Afterwards I put it up on blocks [yes I know cement blocks aren't safe - don't try this at home] to gain access to the entire undercarriage for belley pan fitting. I then began to fabricate the forward belly pan section.



This is now fitted under the car. That's as far as I got tonight. To be continued.....

The longer the manifolds the better the low end torque
equal length helps with pulses so necessary at all rpm levels
not just high rpm. Also high rpm requires shorter runners.
Ive had quad 34mm mikunis with 20cm runners and compared to
the 10cm runners made a hell of a difference down low.
Problem was with clearance on the suspension so had to curve
the runners up which was fine as the manifold was made from
mild steel. The other mod was sand blasting the innards and
outers to help with fuel atomization and the outer to help
stop frosting. It would have helped better if I ran a boxed
up section for water

Every bit helps! Cant believe it made such a huge differnce. Nice going

I took a look at my front brakes this afternoon. I raised the car up, made a chalk mark on the tires, and gave the wheels a "spin test" [by hand] and counted three revolutions each side. So I decided to take them apart and clean them. I lubed the slides and found an NOS hardware kit in my basement. I took advantage of the kit's extra parts to add a second spring between the pads to help them release more completely. Normally there is only a single spring on only one of the pins. The spin test yeilded 6 2/3rds revolutions afterwards. Must have helped.

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Sure, lots of people here running equal-length intake manifolds, they help high end more than low end. I recommend: Round port head, early A12A camshaft, DCOE manifold with length extensions, 40mm carbs with 32mm chokes.

Quote:Absolutely. This sounds like a mod that should help gain the low end power a fuel mileage car is seeking. Has anyone tried this before?

Quote:Excellent question/comment. There are no rules regarding the level of modification at our events. It's pretty much anything goes. One of the only rules we have is that you cannot have an assistant ride ahead of you for drafting purposes. Most participants are not as motivated as I am though, so there haven't been any fuel cells used in competition. That is probably because most people are driving fuel injected cars. It's a great idea though, and one I may act on in the future. Last year I used 1.91 gallons for 118.7 miles so a 2 gallon tank would do it. That would save me from carrying 8 extra gallons = 48 lbs!

Thanks for sharing your good idea.

Mike

Are you allowed to lengthen your inlet manifold runners or use a custom equal length design?

I've tried to read this whole thread. I try and read a little at a time or my brain hurts. :)

I have a question regarding gas and weight savings. I apologize if it's already been covered.
During the competition, are you allowed to use a different size gas tank? I did a quick google search and see that a gallon of gasoline weighs aproximately 6lbs. If Im not mistaken, durring the last competition, you used less that 3 gallons of gas. 3 gallons should weigh about 18lbs vs 10gallons at +60lbs.

Don't assume that the -11 on the end of the standard plug number is the same code that is used on your four electrode plug. It might be, then again, it might not.

Actually, since electricity follows the path of least resistance, & will therefore fire across to only one of the side electrodes, I don't really see the point of this design.

I'll swear by the Platinum or Iridium plugs because the very fine center electrode seems to concentrate the 'jumping off' point for the spark & as I have said before, will fire across a given gap at a given compression pressure with a lower voltage.
This means that the same voltage will fire across a larger gap than a standard type of plug & with a high energy ignition you should be able to open the gap up quite a bit & get something that starts to approach a welding arc.

Well, OK, that might be an exaggeration, but you get the picture.