hey i think i have your inject system too i bought it and now tryin to set it up. im gettin a a14 rebuild wit wat i read should be et pistons?? and a charged cam spec to be found out,, not sure how to go about this. i have a a15 van low comp head going on the a14 block with either doubble valve springs or std wit shims to stiffen. i just interested on how u went on the final carbi setup jet sizes and air sizes. also how or where did u go to get the dizzy work done as im gettin a elec dizzy and may need to mod it for boost. can u please help me if u have any ideas please nick



in the process of getting blower looked at and re oiled and sealed.
cost like 55 bucks for 50mls of oil and the thing takes 130mls
have to get a few things sorted still

thanks for the info grunt much app. so do other people on turbo and supercharged setups run 2.25 straight exhaust??

wow

That looks familiar......

superfatto: do a search for "Supercharging A15" and you should find a blow by blow on how to set it up

It is designed to fit around hi- tec headers, there may be other brands that will work as well. I went 2.5in straight through & it was a bit loud & lumpy. 2.25 would have been better.

Hopefully Daniel gave you both crank pulleys, the 5psi (smaller) and 10 psi pulley. Run the 5 for starters!!!!!

I strongly advise running an A14 with pulsar ET pistons if you are in a position to make a choice. You have to deck the block quite a way from memory, but it will give you a better, more reliable ride than a stock pistoned A15

Forget what people tell you about setting up 32/36 carbies.I learned the hard way (after taking it to one of the few dyno places that would let me in the door without EFI) You have to set it up backwards...... Normally you run an air corrector that is larger than the main jet (e.g. a 128 main and a 145 air corrector) That setup gives you power through the bottom end on acceleration and then allows it to lean out for cruise economy. (the air corrector leans the mixture out at higher air velocities)

When you start running the 10 psi pulley, the blower will push 10psi into the motor at about 1/4 throttle. If you retain a standard jet setup, this will result in a massive lean out. To stop this, you increase the size of the jet and DECREASE the size of the air corrector, to try and ensure that the mixture is rich whenever the engine is on boost.

Dundee 1000 has all the jets you need, and don't let him charge you much for em', cos he got them for free Otherwise ALFA1750 on ebay. you want a range of mains from 130 to 190 and air correctors from as small as they go to about 150


Get an AFR meter. you will tear your hair out without one.

Good luck with it!

If you go big, you'll be able to use the same pipe when you go CA later on. Some say that too big a system will rob power. I'd say there's no harm in going for a decent size pipe on a forced motor.

its got extractors lukey ones, not sure if these are any good. ive got pacemaker manderal bent one on my work car and they good. dont no wat size exhaust to put on 2inch or bigger ????

See if a set of extractors willl clear the blower set up. Since you are forcing the charge in, it's good to make the exhaust side as un restrictive as possible. I made my blower mounts to clear my headers. It was a mission!

bump

want to get exhaust done in the new week any sugests on wat i can go

thanks for the info, i also have to get an exhaust put on the sucker for roady but dont want to have to buy 2, i want to get a exhaust that will be ok for roady on an a12 wit 1x 40mm delorto, but want it to be really setup for the a14 bottom, a15 locomp head and the rest of the work that will be done to the motor. can anyone send me in the right direction of wat to ask for or who to goto please!!


thanks people for your help

Boith ACL, and Permaseal make an off the shelf "head saver shim". They are intended to be used when a head has been skimmed so far that the CR/valve clearance is outside usable tolerances. You glue the shim to the block deck with copper head gasket cement. I run one of these, as well as lower comp pistons. (But not much lower, don't ask about these ) It doesn't hurt to run double valve springs either. You can really get carried away with beefing up the motor, but if you're going to go CA, don't get too hung up with it. If the manifold is for a 32/36, just run with that. They work fine. Do you have the crank puley? What diameter is it? I think the blower pulleys are 125mm from memory. One you get it all running, You'll need to frig arounf rejetting the carb a bit. I ran my mixtures really fat in trepidation of detonation. Just check your plugs to guess the jetting, or if you can borrow one use a wideband A/F meter.
and for the love of god, LISTEN TO YOUR ENGINE!!!!!! If you hear it ping, retard the timing. Don't just drive it hard cos it goes hard. There are UMPTEEN stories on this site starting off got my turbo/blown motor going. Then What causes blowby? lots of folk crack their ring lands, and get mad blowby.
Get your set up running first though.

We run redline gear oil in the drive cases on the Sprintex blower drive cases.... oil level is critical, too little and they lunch the gears, too much, same deal... the little helical gears don't like the heat at the rpm they do....

ps the engine this came off had de-comp in the head and andwater-meth injection...