With the 1400 it'll put me over the engine capcity for 2Lt class, if i get serious with it i'll put an A12 so it brings me up to under 2Lt.

I intend do do some hillclimbs and sprint event first so i can develop the handling,suspension and braking systems, and i'll take it from there. I've also have another CA18DET powered coupe in progress, it'll be built for the track.

The standard suspension isn't that bad needs too be stiffened up a little but the big thing is the brakes! the poor girl has still got 4-wheel drum and she's starting to become a 'pig under brakes, it's gets a bit hairy!

I've played with 1200's for years! the 1000's are different but i'm hooked!

im a B10 lover now!....................

And i'm proud of it!

Yeah,that ring's a bell,that was a while ago,but yes what he said was accurate.

No booster on that car,used a 1200 coupe master for memory.A firm pedal that required a bit of effort to stand it on it's nose but with good feel(my preferance,he had to learn to like it,which he did)and a rear brake bias adjuster.

To help further with this discussion,what class are you aiming at?

Cheers

Sorry my fault! i shoud've mentioned that i'll be running my A14turbo motor, so the torana brakes would be overkill.

I'm interested in the Hyundai Sonata rear rotors and the laser calipers, simple bolt on set up!

The S13 set up would work effectively.

I'm planning running 13's, i've got a set with Yokahama AO32r's.

Bert:I remember the white 2-door sedan that robert ran at Mt cotton in my blue CA18DET powered coupe( you may remember) when i was living in QLD and i vaugely remeber him say that he used Laser parts, but i wasn't sure. did u run brake booster?

Anyone got any suggestion for suspension set-up?

I was'nt speciffically refering to your post Brent,and i did read it all and all the others along with all the others over the years but making a general comment on some folks attitude towards the humble"sideways leaf"

Until we know what Steve is aiming to achieve and in what class he would prefer to be competing in all comments on what he should or should'nt do remain hypothetical as i'm sure you know.

The best any of us can do is report on personal experiances in the hope others don't make similar mistakes.
As a matter of interest,my Sports Sedan with mid mounted L series all those years ago started with the transverse leaf and progressed to HR holden front end,but was never as efficient(geometry)as the original set up.

I like to think i understand C.G.,Roll Centres,Weight transfer issues etc. quite well along with a very good knowledge of Vette's,i spose it come's with the grey hairs

if you had read all my posts then i wouldnt have to explain myself tenfold. bert what im saying is if you are going all out and using a high hp motor that is heavy and possibly tall then you would want to get that motor as low down as possible (lower centre of gravity means better handling) that could potentially mean having to cut up the crossmember (or sit next to the motor) so now you have the issue of the leaf spring so if you used the hq front end you get copius amounts of brakes and you can cut up the crossmember down fall of it is lots of homework and fabrication involved
BUT if you are going a small compact motor like the aseries then keep the leaf and opt for a lighter setup
and that transverse leaf isnt such a bad thing go look under some late model corvettes i think you might be surprised as to what you see but it can be a pain in the ass if you want to hack that crossmember up

I'm constantly amazed at how many people fall into the idea that the povo transverse leaf set up on the 1000 series is no good!

Sure it's primitive,but once understood it can work a treat....and cheaply.

The work involved in the fabrication(that actually works)of a new front end set up is complex and time consuming exercise and should only be attempted by people with the appropriate level of experiance along with a very healthy budget,added to all of this is the engineering required for legal road use,or alternatly for motor sport(CAMS) you cannot compete unless in a Sports Sedan class.
Having done this exercise many years ago along with on going development at the time i can report that the effort did not come close to the ultimate results expected.

As for the brakes,grab yourself some Hyundai Sonata rear rotors(ventalated)and shove them straight over the top of the 1000 hub(same stud pattern)which will sit inside the rotor centre,grub screw to the hub or leave "floating"your track will increase by the width of the thickness of the face of the rotor centre,which is good.

If using 13" wheels you can get a laser caliper inside with a little grinder relief hanging off a fabricated bracket or if bigger diameter wheels a BMW caliper or Holden is a good choice.

The old B10 was able to out stop every car it ever competed against with the above set up with laser calipers.

It also used one of those horrible transverse leafs

LOL so they are but they are pretty much the same thing neil and yes they are heavy but i was thinking more towards not having to keep the front leaf and i only sugested it if you are going for lots of power and a heavy tall motor

we've fitted the S13 silvia rotors, and made a custom plate to hold in some VN Commodore calipers... got a VS master cylinder to do the work... (its a work in progress)

When you say Holden one ton, do you mean that's what they come off, or that's what they weigh?

I would imagine that for such a light car some dazzling brake performances could be obtained with something less weighty, .... something from an S13 or S14 perhaps?

Thats a Torana front not a HQ

Bit of overkill though

very heavy front brake setup