Try another dropping/ballast resister, if your's is stuffed you may not get any signal to injectors.

You probably know already but you can pull the CAS out and turn it with your fingers to check if the injectors are firing, it's easier than cranking the engine every time.

yer thanks mate but a afm wouldn cause no injector pulse or no spark but thanks for the idea..

did you check your afm is not stuffed? my car wouldn't start cos of that, i had to put my hand over the afm to get it started... just throwin you ideas i know exactly what your goin thru haha

ok done all checks yes im gettin 12volts to ecu!! its in the ecu its not pulsing!! im sick of it im either gonna burn it, sell it or micro-tek it!! more then likely ill put a micro-tek in it as wiring will look neater n will get more kw's n coin if n when i sell

yer mate all thats done there is power goin to injectors there just no injector pulse.. was thinkin of double checkin power to the ecu at crank again maybe loosin it there hope all works cause im just ova it want it goin already haha n yes all earths r done like got more then enough..

earths all good?
one to head
one to block
one to body
2 from efi harness to engine
no one ever lost a race from having too many earths
do you have dropping resistors wired in, got continuity?
if they are unplugged you will have no +12v at injector
+12v is from relay to dropping resistor to injector
earth circuit is direct from injector to ecu to earth
no point buying a microtech if it is a wiring issue.
diagnose first its cheaper. prove the ecu is bad first
dazza

The injectors are switched on via separate earth pulses from the ecu. It is actually possible to touch these wires to earth quickly and force the injectors to click / work. It is common for CA injectors to stick closed is the motor has not been started for a while.

If you are using stock fuse box also check the EGI fuse and relay is are working, Also the IGN relay. his are interlinked and feed volts to coils and injectors.

Makes more sense if you have schematic of CA engine.

If all this checks OK, try your ecu in some one elses car. But I would check that the 12 volt feeds are getting to coils and injectors.

yer thanks for that datto dude!! yer i checked the wires visual n for ohms at ecu, n continuity, bak probed wires to dionosis on the s13 workshop manual using stock ecu atm but really tempted to throw a micro-tek in it!!

Which computer are you using?? stock CA or aftermarket?

And how'd you do the wiring check?? Visual or did you check the continuity of the wires with a electrical meter?

Use a new battery.

<12v means the car purposely won't start.

Also replace the CAS. The sensors after 20 years are getting flakey.

Neutral switch etc doesn't affect spark. The debugging guides in the factory manual will tell you this.

If you've checked everything else...please put the battery on the charger overnight, and try again tomorrow.


ps (edit) also check you are still getting 12v at the ECU during cranking. As I'm sure you are aware, the 1200 has 2 terminals for ignition, one for cranking, and one for running. Please bridge these two, to create an ignition always pin.