i would be using several 1 or 2mm spacers between the plates on that bolt to adjust castor just to limit movement and i also agree with the several holes instead of one long slot but as a prototype its looking good

Yesterday assembled it with a M12 HT bolt, worked great, will one day when it is in use see if it holds up, otherwise the next step will be to get a rose joint with a bigger diameter, even if this means re tapping thread on the shock.

Castor is adjusted by moving the rose joint from left to right by turning a nut or two on the bolt.

i've got the same problem with my shocks bottoming out, i need to go at least an inch lower at the front but my shocks bottom out if i go any lower and this is without bump stops or anything so it's the max travel i can get. with your setup though couldn't you just make your camber/caster adjuster thing taller so that your shock bolts up much higher and you get another inch or so lower without losing any shock travel at all? you could even make them with multiple slots so that these gave you height as well as camber and caster adjustment, although strength might start to become an issue.

I like the design, my only concern is the strength? How much extra pressure is put on that bolt when you adjust the castor? I would've used a series of holes to calibrate the camber, are you trying to pivot the rosejoint to help with castor? or purely adjusting it at the rods?

Good idea on the plates, well done there, I would definitely be going for a larger high tensile bolt and use shims to change castor, also use a larger rod end. Can you buy from ebay US? A lot of surplus race gear on there.

As for measurements, monroe catalogues here in Australia have all measurements for their shocks, good for sizing up different models and makes doesn't state valving, I wouldn't use gas inserts in a datsun myself. Oil is the way to go.

You think that is a issue for you, I'm in SA, any non standard part is a issue if the budget is tight.

I just thought of something, actually it kinda shot itelf down when I looked at it again. Say you found a coiover setup with and eyelet top instead of the stud you wouldn't need to use teh rose joint but that makes one problem (two since I can't find any shock like I'm thinking)

1. eylets are bigger so not as much adjustment

The configuration is great, the whole sliding plate and 4-6 Allen caps that needs to be undone and done again just does not make sense to me. Great option if you take it to someone that does the alignment and you are done. I'm not after something that can earn you braging rights, I want something practical, adjustable and easy to operate.
If you need to change these stuff on a hourly basis to gain the correct setup for a gymkhana or race, this is the way I think is the easiest.

Currently it is only a trial fitment.

The loctite + locknut is the option.

When I can afford the conversion parts this will be the way to go.
Adding a nut to it know adds another 10mm of lift. The rose joint adds already about 18mm.

Excellent. Haven't seen this solution before and have not seen any set up which allows both camber and castor adjustment.

Have you come up with ideas on how to ensure the rose joint can't undo itself from the top of the insert/rod? Loctite + Lock-nut maybe I guess. I know the bearing on top of the spring hat will help negate this but I expect there will still be a tendancy for it to try to work itself loose which would be a worry at speed.

In the beginning post of this thread there are to links.

I'll add the pic to it.