but the bolt through the srping pack also helps them stay together. i thin k you should replace the bolt and drill out the lowering blocks to suit the bolt head
this is what the bolt holds together:


and if the bolt isnt there or snaps, this is what may occur

You really shouldn't be working on cars at all with that level of experience.

The word is 'ground'. You 'ground' the head from the centerbolt, not 'grinded'
Did you stop to think why the head of the centerbolt was there? Go on, it wasn't there for decoration.

Drilling additional holes in three layers of spring steel, four times over, now there's a bright idea. Good luck.

Here's my suggestion. Look up the yellow pages or the internet & find a spring works.
Buy some new center bolts.
Get someone who has a clue to fit them for you.
re-assemble the rear suspension & drive car to a place that sells the CORRECT lowering blocks for your model.
Get this person with the clue to fit these instead of the dud ones.

I don't mean to be harsh but if you can't figure out that .......
past tense of grind is 'ground, not grinded
a spring center bolt is needed to hold the spring together
The center bolt head is used to positively locate the rear axle housing
that the wrong part should be correctly modified if this is feasable or
that it should not be used & a correct part used instead

then perhaps you should not be interfering with important safety elements of a motor car untill you have read the manual & learned a bit more.

Great to here your words of wisdom again Dodgy

Where abouts are you iDATTO,i assume the Goldie somewhere?

im at hollywell
okay..
well dont make me out to be such a dumbass, cus i thought i shouldnt do it, im seriously not that dumb mate.
but i was reading this http://www.minitruckinweb.com/tech/su ... op_kit_install/index.html
and durin the read it said "One specialty tool was used when we had to whip out an air powered cut off wheel that was needed to remedy a problematic leaf-spring bolt, but other than that, the install was smooth." and i figured, people that build world class utes should no what they are talking about..
and this isnt an english class.. and you new what i was talking about so why bring it up

oh and i also realize they may fall apart, when its not in the car, it has the plate that the shock is pushing up on and the pressure of the Ubolts over the diff pulling it all down together
it also have the clamp things the go over the ends so they cant spin either. i did think this though..

No offense mate, but that website, is imho, a perfect example of the fact that brothers and sisters shouldn't breed.

Where do I start. OK - in general lowering blocks at all are a p1ss poor way of lowering a car. The further you move the diff/axle housing away from the leaf spring, the more leverage it gets and it increase the leaf springs curling up in an S shape under power, leading to axle tramp and potentially dangerous handling. The higher the lowering blocks, the worse it gets. Most of us could accept that something like 1-1.5 inches wouldn't be absolutely woeful, but 3 full inches - like they did on that website article, is just plain nuttier than squirrel poo.

THEN they talk about cutting off rubber bump stops which are there to act as a lastr line of defence to cushion against the suspension bottoming out. That's absolutely criminal that they suggest it at all. You'd thnk that website was a bloody p1ss-take, a joke, not a real article.

FURTHERMORE - when they discuss cutting a leaf spring bolt, they don't specify. It might have actually been one of the nuts on the old U bolts that seized, and they cut it, knowing new u bolts would be used that are 3 inches longer to allow the lowering blocks to fit. OR they might have meant one of the bolts on the eye bushes on each end of the leaf spring, they are an item that can potentially rust a little and seize on the inner sleeve of the bush, and the only option to remove them is to cut them and then run a brand new nut/bolt when you re-assemble. They don't specify that it is the centre bolt that holds the leaf pack together and also locates the diff to keep it perfectly perpendicular (or 'straight') in alignment with the vehicle.

In all seriousness mate, nobody is trying to insult you, I mean this deadly seriously - they are trying to save your life. The potential for this to go bad, really bad, is massive. It'd be one thing if it was only the person doing the modification (wrongly) got hurt, but the risk is very real that you could take out another car/occupants therein as well - and that is a whole different kettle of fish.

For goodness sake, and your own safety, please take what has been said to heart, it's genuine advice. If you aren't sure, then ask here, people are definitely willing to help sort it out, but rest assured, you aren't currently 'on top of' this situation/concept, and that bolt you've ground the head off, is CRITICAL - and needs to be replaced. If you have to do it, get 2 large G clamps, and clamp the leave pack in front and behind that bolt, then you can undo the nut, and the springs won't fly out all over the place, and then you can replace the bolt and go from there. If the lowering blocks don't fit FIX/SORT OUT THE LOWERING BLOCKS - THEY ARE THE PROBLEM, not the existing suspension.

I know it isn't an English class here, but could I respectfully ask you to consider the fact that the people here are taking time to respond and help you - they aren't getting a penny for it, it's free and charitable. Nobody is expecting you to be the world spelling champion, but if we are taking the time to reply, it isn't unreasonable to ask that the question/ongoing posts show signs of at least some attempt at correct grammar and punctuation.

I'll close with this thought - if you don't take the advice here on board, please post back with the rego number of your vehicle, for two reasons:

a. so we can all steer clear of it if we see it out on the street, and stay out of harm's way

b. so that if you end up killing someone, you can't claim you had no blame/responsibility for the collision/accident - you can never say you weren't told.

well said jmac

okay thankyou for that. i do understand that

i just went and unbolted the other sides Ubolts and put the other block under it. so that the left side is all lined up, then i put the right side (the side that i ground the bolt off)lowering block in and it is about 3cms from being lined up, i no for certain that these blocks came out of a 1200 ute, so im guessing the previous owner of mine has put different springs in, being an old farm ute this doesnt sound like a silly idea.

so what do you think i should do?
how can i tell if these are standard springs?
if they arent, where can i get my hands on some?
ive heard flipping the 3rd (correct me if im wrong) also lowers your car too?
also
re arching your springs
is that expencive?
does it lower your car by much?

thanks for your critisim (<--hmm?)

also i just looked at the picture at the top of page two and saw there is a box looking part in the middle of the spring, should mine have this?
cheers nathan.

FLAMED!

just take it to the shop to get it done, so many ways to lower a car.. do your research or expect to get a big lecture from people like dodge and jmac.

Its not my car at the end of the day, and seeing as your not in WA, the chances of me seeing you driving around is slim and if i did, i would give ya the thumbs up for having a lowerd datto :P

The photos in this thread depict a spring set from a passenger model. Utes & Wagons do not have this rubber part, so what you have is probably the correct & original setup.

Lowering blocks are like drinking, ... in moderation, they will be OK but big blocks mean big problems.

Reversing a spring leaf will lower the suspension for all the wrong reasons.

Reset springs will lower the suspension by any amount that you specify & if the spring works bloke is savvy, he will stiffen the spring stack a little to compensate for the reduced travel.
In a Ute, it's probably plenty stiff enough as it is so a conversation with the people that would be doing the job is always a good idea.

Resetting the springs is usually the most costly option but is also the best method overall for all the right reasons.

While it doesn't specifically apply to Utes, the Gregories Datsun 1200 workshop book is a very good investment & they can be bought very inexpensively on eBay. The illustrations, photos & step by step instructions have saved many a busted knuckle & many an otherwise wasted dollar, so have a look & see if you can pick one of these up as I'm sure it will save you some grief along the way.