Hard to say exactly, depends on a few things.

It would roughly be around 90-100hp, give or take a few horsepower units.

The T2 is a good size for an A-series, seeing that its standard on a 1.5 engine, You'll be happy with it but you might get a bit bored with it and want to go to the bigger T25.

you could always start with the t2 to keep prices down, then do abit of internal work with leftover $$.
then get the t25 later on if you get bored?
or just boost up the t2

This Turbo is my recommendation... $75
http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=12197

Its one of 2 Turbo's off a 2 litre twin turbo Subaru Legacy... perfect for a A12...

Keep in mind T2 turbo your thinking is off a larger engine so will be laggy compared to the std E15... Also being the E15 is EFI it will have better fuel and spark control to give better lower down driveability... The Legacy Turbo is design to work at low RPM so should make the A12 quite driveable and give good boost levels at low rpm... exactly what youll want with a small engine...

I ran a TD04 (someone gave it to me) on a completely stock A12 with A14 head with a SU carbie(and manifolds) and made 100kw atw with 16lbs boost... But it was a little laggy but was good from 4000RPM onwards... but the engine ran out of Puff at 6000RPM...
Therefore you want something that works from 2500/3000rpm to 6000rpm.

Honestly... use a bog stock A12, run this little turbo with an SU carbie and go and have some fun, youll love it!... If you want more grunt, get an A15, larger turbo, EFI and spend about $5000... instead of $500...

Take advice from someone who's done it...
http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/v ... =ASC&type=&mode=0&start=0

if you do anything make sure you take photos and write down the info cause i might be going downt this track from my a14 for my sunny

anyone got an SU carbie for sale?

thanks top gear thats a good idea
could i get a cheap SU? or how much are they?

If you want an SU carby, let me know, I'll donate one free to the project. I've got a couple of 1 3/4" SUs, The only thing you need to do is get the needle profile right. If you were running twins or more SUs, you need to go through multiple needle swaps. With a single one, you can actually get away with a nice little trick. You deliberately select a needle that is too thick and runs lean. (whatever you do, don't run it up with massive boost at that stage) and you slowly file the needle down to be thinner in the appropriate section (you can work it out fairly well - the first thickest section near the top is for idle through to light cruise, the middle 1/3rd is for part throttle through to small hills but no boost, and the last 1/3rd is for boost. So in general terms you keep it relatively thick at the top, and take a reasonable amount off the bottom. you basically need to use an ego sensor to get it close.

I haven't done a drawthrough SU on a 1.2 litre four, so I can't give you a ballpark sort of needle profile, you'd have to do the trial and error.

One thing I will mention. Apart from the really ancient stuff, there's two types of SUs that you'll come across. The hs type, which have external fuel bowl off to the side, and the modern 'hif' type SU. ALthough the hif arguably has some innovations that make it a little bit better to get economy, I would not recommend it - and here is the 'why'. Two changes (amongst many) they make is that the needle is spring loaded and 'leans' to the side, so it always rubs against the jet that it slides inside of to change the effective jet open area. This will cause the needle to wear out the jet over about 3 years of use, which will make it get richer and richer as it wears the jet. It also wears down the needle. Worse still, it can 'jam' if you hand file the needle to get it right, so you'd have to run store bought needles (at probably $15 each till you get the right one) Secondly, they have a sort of 'automatic choke' device - which is a metal bracket which holds the jet in place that is bimetallic - two slithers of different metal stuch together. They expand at different rates, so as it heats up, it warps the bracket and lifts the jet a little bit, which leans out the mixture. In other words, when cold it automatically runs richer, and as the motor warms, it leans out to the proper a/f mixture when the engine is up to operating temps. The problem with it (and this experience comes from blowthrough setups on minis, but it's likely to happen on a few others) that heat from the turbo underbonnet can be enough to warp it further, so when it's up and running and spooled up, it leans out, and obviously you'd actually want it to be richer as you feed in boost and underbonnet temps increase as a result of radiation from the turbo exhaust scroll.

Anyhoo - if you want an SU, just let me know (you'd probably get good results from a 1 1/2" SU - a single 1 3/4 on a drawthrough can support over 200 flywheel bhp (not that you'd necessarily want to run just one by that stage) which is well over what you'd be chasing with your setup. - I'm happy to donate a carby, but it'd have to be in a week or two, as they are all trapped in a corner of the shed with a few engine blocks and things in the way.