I've heard that A-12's are really easy to get over 10,000 rpm. A good rebuild/balance, raise the compression, race cam, beefed up head, headers, and DCOE's supposedly will do the trick.
I wonder which would be more fun a built A-12 that can rev over 10,000 rpm or a built up A-14/15 that goes hard to 8,000 rpm. I wonder how hard it is to get an A-15 to rev to 10,000 rpm?
Probably quite a bit more work with the increased stroke. I'm trying to decide if I will stick with my stock style EFI setup or a full blown quad DCOE throttle body setup. The quad
throttle body style should be able to give more power no matter what, right (Turbo or N/A)? See ya!

-Andy

Thanks for the offer Chris, but i think the hot bits of zinc would ruin my sleeper look :)
I'm fresh out of rubber earth straps,but I have a vast collection of blown L series headgaskets. maybe we can
do business :P

>I know you told us not to ask but... Why?
>
Ok, well I put an A14 into my 1000 coupe, the A14 came with some webers and extractors, so I've been using them for now. Problem is the extractors(headers) rub on both the idler arm
and the gearbox. It makes an annoying noise, and decreases my turning circle a bit.

In Australia we need to get an engineers certificate for any engine swap that increases capacity by more than 20%, (It had a 988cc A10 originally). The car wont pass the engineers
inspection the way it is now. So I need to track down a manifold that will clear the webers, and everything else asap.

James.

It can't be hitting too badly, surely a hot oxy flame and a hammer will move them in the right direction..Maybe an exhaust place could to it.

It's been too long since I've dealt with an A-series engine. I chucked the last one out. I kept the carby though. Sometimes these weber manifolds requiring a matching exhaust
manifold. But I would think a stock exhaust manifold would do the job.

>
>It can't be hitting too badly, surely a hot oxy >flame and a hammer will move them in the right >direction..Maybe an exhaust place could to it.
>
Yeah, already had it up on the hoist with the oxy on them, they are bent as much as they are going to bend. Theres a few mm clearance either side, but when the engine twists, the right
side hits the gearbox, or when I make a left-hand turn idler arm says hello to the left side.

Yep a stock a14/15 manifold would should work, I think. The best solution would be some factory extractors (off a A12gx i think). That orange ute with the supercharged A15 has some,
but they are rare as a hens teeth

I just re-read my last message and realised that when my engine twists, so does the gearbox:) so thats not the cause of the problem but that is when i can
hear it tapping

i have 3 A12 exhaust manifolds, all factory stock ones, 2 are the same and one is different casting, yeah, i also have rocker covers... and spare push rods :) also i have
just been experimenting catching exhaust gasses inside my car as i would like to collect them myself, ive hardly been collecting for very long and its really tiring work and
now im really hungry.
choice from chris.

man that would be real crazy, the sound would be awsome :) man. 165 mph :) all good that would seriously need a lot of opening up to flow enough air to keep power
at those rpms... sweet!
man i am missing so much, what the world sees as an upgrade is truly a down grade when compared to a datto 1200.
choice from chris.

The A15 can be bored to .140 inch over to increase the bore to stroke ratio which in turn relates to a 10,000 rpm A12. Do the same things to the bored A15 and
get your rpm's.

When I built the A12 in my coupe it had
J13 flat top pistons, GX head with competition
valve springs twin 40 Makunis and a big cam
it idled at 1600 rpms with a lope and reved
to 9500 rpms in 3 gears. It went 6000 miles
before the cam ate through a lifter racing
a motor cycle up a mountain road. The Great
Datto still limped home 45 miles on 3 cylinders.
That was 15 years ago, before the wife and children. It is all mostly stock for California smog reasons ,now exempt and
ready to build
again