Bumping this old topic,
A bloke asked me the other day about how he could 5 stud the front of his 1200. I asked another mate who has 5 stud and four pots on his sr20det 510. He said he used S14 gear. Which made me think of this thread.
It wouldn't be too had to cut and shut the bottom arms,(Or make a new one from scratch) to fix the camber.
BUT, How would you go with regards to the ackerman angle? The S13 steering arm ia fixed to the stub axle, and is meant for a car with a longer wheel base......

You should mock it all up, and run a stringline from the center of the ball joint, to the center of the differential. (And the steering arm should be parralle to the bottom arm)
I did once see a racecar where a B310 steering arm was cut and rewelded to make it the same as a 1200 one. (then ground up nice and painted so no-one could tell!)

Apparently you can just pop the S14 hub onto the S13 knuckle which saves you having to drill the R32\33\blah rotors as well

edit: yes I'll rig up the old twine level, but wont it hit on the body work ?

I'm not sure about it hitting the underside of not.

nice work ,anychance you could try putting a list on wiki about the swap or putting a list of parts that are needed to swap them in
thanks and its coming along realy well !!

I put about two sentences in the wiki about CA brakes over certain 13 inch wheels and I haven't had the patience to put time in. I was planning on linking the other relevant threads in the first post of this thread but I suppose that would make more sense if I did it as a wiki.

Also I gave my mate the other set of 910 LCA's and apparently (I'm going to properly measure the left over one since he's made a staggered arrangement for a speedway car) it's hard to tell but they're 10mm longer than the R31 LCA's. Poo, I could of had cheaper camber.

im only doing mine for my drift pig 1200 ,but it will sit realy low and bgy the looks of your pictures thats a bad thing !


good work mate keep it up ,and ill buy those coil overs if you get new ones :D

i made custom Tension rods for the B110 using S13 LCA and coilovers, using the S13 Tension Rod, cut off the bushing end, drill and tap it so you can use a 1/2 bolt 5-6" long, then use the B110 bushing with a couple nuts to adjust it.

I like it, how far down did you drill?

Estyre the main problem with having it low is you need the spring rate to be quite high to keep the car from bottoming out, I want to have this working with 175/250lbs springs which should cover various uses people will have for the setup.

I had a drive of my mates R30 race car with this setup and I forgot that he did that swap. It handles extremely well, I'm use to tram lining so nothing surprised it was quite direct and the springs and shocks are perfectly supporting the car and even with the locked rear end, you can't feel the understeer push ussually associated with locked diffs.

He's used R30 control arms, r30 tie rods and modified original s13 strut bodies for 60 mm springs.

I drilled em ~3" each, tapped them about 2.75". I have only cruised around my street getting em set up so I can get to the alignment shop. But I am guessing it should go pretty good. When I get to the alignment shop I'll use lock nuts and washers to make sure it doesn't wiggle loose when hitting pot holes etc.

We didnt get R30's or 31's here in Trinidad (caribbean) so it was much easier for me to fab this up and it fits too perfectly not to.

LittleFireyOne - do you perhaps have more photos.
I'm seriously considering the S13 setup in my Project car, Reasons:
1. No changes to current adjustable LCA or Track Rods
2. Height adjustable
3. Bump and rebound adjustable

Last to if I fit the correct coil overs.

But in RSA S13 parts are crap expensive, so need I need to do more home work before spending AUS $700-800 for a experiment that can go very wrong. And to add to that, that is only the standard shock, strut assembly with hub, LCA and track rods of the S13, I will aslo need 2 S13 coilovers to achieve my goals.