Hmm i'd love to give it a go, but now r-fast has got me thinking about doing some U2l imp. prod. racing in the next couple of years so I may just go with a CA18DE. How far oversize can you go in the bore on these? I prefer the design of the CA over the SR20 for some reason. Valvetrain seems better. Does anyone know if you can use RB26 lifter buckets and shims in place of the hydraulic lifters?
Didn't have much luck trying to find a CA16, tried places in sydney and melbourne, found only 2 and they wanted $900 for them. Geez.

Ian I wasnt sure about NSW for the U1600 class
in that case....
e15 rods with 40mm mains ca18de rods 48mm mains?
thats 8mm to play with to bring the crank stroke
down from 83.9mm to 75.9mm.
then 1mm offset grind of the crank
74.mm x 83mm bores = 1621cc
using cheap rods
Only issue is getting the rods long enough otherwise
decking the block 10mm might be an issue but if not
an issue using the stock belt then itll be lighter again :)

If i was going to do it like that i'd like to keep the rods as long as possible, reduces side loading of the piston which equals less friction = more horsepower.

I reckon an injected and intercooled turbo a12 would be the go for the under 2ltr class.

NA ca18de (1599cc) 74.6mm stroke:

If you can run 140mm e15 rods
your RS ratio will be 1.9

If you can run 136.65 e15et rods
your RS ratio will be 1.85

TURBO A12
Custom 129mm c-c, 40mm big end Conrods
to suit 62mm destroked a12 crank
9500rpm redline
78mm bores 1185cc
2.081 RSR

So many decisions. I think now i've decided to go up a class to 2 litre. The supersprints still run a 1600 class but the improved production racing does not. All my mates were in V8s at Phillip island on the weekend and they were demolishing me down the straight. A 200 odd hp ca18 would probably even things up a bit, and probably have better longevity than an A12 turbo. Not too keen on spending money on offset ground cranks and custom rods, my budget doesn't really extend to serious r&d, and i would like to keep as much meat on the crank as possible to avoid fatigue related failures such as cracked journals.

Where is the best place to pick up a couple of CA18de's?Are the bottom ends the same as det's? I've heard there are oil squirters for the pistons on the det's, would these be of much benfeit on an n/a motor?
I'll spend this year getting this new motor and gearbox sorted and then i'll retire the A15 at the end of the year and swap in the new motor.

Try the following thread
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=5655

I think the oil squirters is not an issue as you can have your
rods notched but need the turbo rods, cranks are supposedly same
and lower compression for turbo but there is also a crank girdle
on the turbo model.

Aiden, I've got an old CA18DET long motor I picked up somewhere, it's minus all the turbo stuff, as I understand this engine has a blown head gasket. the original owner got another CA18 & swapped it in. So I can't guarantee the condition of the engine. If you're interested in it, I'll talk to my partner about letting you have it for nothing.What I wanted to do with it was get liners fitted to make it a genuine 2 litres. I was going to talk to Wilkins Performance here in Sydney about it, as their reputation is top notch.I've seen liner kits for SR20's to make them a 90 mm bore, giving 2.4 litres,so something similar for the CA18 would be needed. I thought this would make a nice alternative to an SR20, being physically smaller & a little lighter. Also if you're willing to travel up to Sydney, the Northern Wreckers at Londonderry had some EXA's with CA engines the last time I was there. I'd recommend a series 3 B/Bird 5 speed for behind this engine, as the 2nd gear is a bit taller & therefore closer to 3rd gear than the R30 stumpy box. This is what I have for the SR20DE I'm putting into the Sunny sedan I've been assembling for a while. OR how about a 2 litre twin cam 16 valve L18. A guy by the name of Jamie Waterhouse here in Sydney has a 2.4 litre DOHC 16 valve L18, using a Z24 crank, & a KA24DE head on his l18, all in a 120Y 2 door sedan rally car. If you used an L20B crank instead of the Z24 & bore it 1 mm to 86 mm, it'd be eligible for under 2 litre. Theres a lot of work getting the head & block to fit, but it'd be a hoot watching the reactions whenever you popped the bonnet. Jamie reported that the conversion gave the L series the feel of an A series, in that it'd still rev even after the cam stopped, instead of hitting a wall like they do. The L18 I have in the Sunny coupe stops dead at 5300, wont go any further, better change up or you're going backwards. or maybe a Stanza L16 block with a Z18 crank & rod, pistons, head & an SR20 turbo fitted for under 3 litre (1770cc X 1.7 = 3009cc). You can still use all the crossmembers Jeff can help you with for an L series swap & then you go hunting rotaries. I've got a Z18 in pieces I bought to stick the head & injection on my Z24 Navara, which won't work, so it's sitting in the same shed as the CA18.

Hi Paul, yeah i'd be interested in the CA, doesn't matter if its in bad nick, I would be rebuilding it anyway. I'd be happy to sling you some cash for it as well if you want. What's the deal with the liners to make it two litres? I'm guessing they'd be well into the water jackets?

Aiden glad to see the dream is still alive now thanks to Paul :)

Found another thread somewhere saying the ca18de blocks also have
the oil squirter just not setup. Dont know what that means but there
are parts galore at the moment.

Interesting to hear about the l18 twin cam ka hybrid I didnt know anyone
finished the twin cam conversion for this head let alone on a shorter
l18 block which would be an awesome way of getting around the rules for
racing and the street, no pollution gear.