From what I understand most older cars allow a little air to be pumped from the fuel tank which doesn't matter in a carb but does for fuel injection. (Modern cars the fuel tank is designed to avoid this problem.) Seems like most people run a low pressure pump to a surge tank or swirl pot (depending on what you want to call it) which feeds the high pressure pump. The surge tank in this case just serves to keep the high pressure pump inlet under the surface of the fuel avoiding air.

There's nothig magic about a surge tank, a verticle 2" pipe with the ends closed and the appropriate fittings would do the job. Most fit a return line to the fuel tank, alternatively a float and needle would work since this is how carbs do the job.

If you are tricky you could pull the fuel pump and mounting from a fuel tank like the vehicle the maniflod is from and build a small tank around it. You can avoid a lot of head scratching by copying what was done on the car the parts are froms since it's already been solved there. A Hyundai Excel circa 91 has a very similar intake, you could head down to the wrecking yard and study one of them. The one I saw the other day had steel fuel lines for the non-flexible parts.

Hope his helps.

Just use the fuel pump from a VL commodore. Thats what everyone seems to use. (hell, even I've got one lined up to use!)

you will at least have to run a return line back to the tank
as for a surge tank they are recommended to stop fuel surge but having said that i put an sr20 into an old carby hilux with just a low pressure pump pumpping straight into a vl pump with no surge tank and it was fine
just cant let the fuel level in the tank get to low or in will surge around corners

Ok ive figured what im going to do:

small low pressure electric fuel pump to pump fuel into a surge chamber in the boot, return line going from top of surge chamber back to fuel tank. VL commadore inline fuel pump in boot as well and a line running to the fuel rail. return line off the fuel rail goes back to the surge tank.

I think that this setup will work fine. if anyone disagrees then please sing out.

Sounds like you've got it dialed mate. I spent part of today crawling through a junkyard getting a low pressure lift pump, and a VL efi pump.
I scored my lift pump from a (square body) subaru leone. (there is a plate infront of the right rear wheel.

I was just going to use a fuel pump off another morry minor here, im sure it will supply the required flow especially with the surge tank in the system acting as a buffer.

Are the VL pumps hard to get or are they not a high demand item?

I put a switch and a coil ballast resistor in-line to the Bosch (VL) external pump on my CA18DE and DET on my original car.
I wouldn't go drag racing with the ballast resistor switched on, but it stops the pump locking up in traffic on a hot summers day. I'd have to wait 30 minutes before the pump would start working again. I used to pack a 2L PET bottle of water that I could splash over the bosch pump to cool it down. I had a switch on the dash to enable and bypass the ballast resistor. It reduces the pump noise immensely too. I had 4 or 5 breakdowns on hot days when the bosch pump locked up, generally on hills and in traffic. After I put the ballast resistor on.. it never happened again.

After the bad experiences with external pumps, I modified the fuel tank and put an intank pump and swirl pot in my project 1200 sedan.

so why was the pump locking up?

Heat. It had all the appropriate filters. They don't like to run at 13.8V in 30degC+ days.
Only overheats in traffic, but that's when you need reliability the most.

Spec says operating voltage is 12V.. they run at 13.8 obviously on a running car. But that's the only sign of a warning Bosch gives.

Maybe Mildman can comment more. I think he works for Bosch.

My Bosch pumps (I bought 2 brand new at > $250 each in mid ninties) both did the same thing.

The pump was mounted behind the rear seat footwell in a1200 sedan. Not enough airflow and they get too hot to touch and lock up until they cool down.

It wouldn't reach 30C too often in invercargill me thinks. (not saying it doesn't get that hot there, but it's a long way south) Interesting you should say that though. I have been told that they are a noisy bitch of a pump. I wonder how hard it might to to rig up a hobbs switch to bypass the ballast when the pressure is insufficeint? EDIT, or a WOT switch to bypass it when there is some serious fuel demands.
Also, the turbo square model leones have an EFI compatable pump in the same place as the low pressure pumps are on the carb models. (Just saying to give you greater options to choose from for your set up)