Time for update

Got the engine mounts from both a bluey and pintara with ca20e
and found the pinnie to be more suited.
Modified the mounts by removing excess material and shaping them
to suit a lower mounted position for the b10.
Also got the crossmember from bluey just to get the simpler
mount supports, Ive removed the spot welds and placed them over
a 1000 crossmember I have spare. Ill get pics up soon.

Also got my ca16 cleaned up and with a front wheel sump for fitting
purposes and will sit further back in the engine bay 3cm back and
although 1.5cm longer than the A series will leave a tad more room
at the front as Ive removed the long section of drain tube and left
the top section which is plenty for any 1000 to use for drainage.

Got 3 stumpy boxes for spares and a ca20 front bellhousing so just
need to get that on the box but will like to use the alloy centre
plate for my anal weight reduction. Will make the box weaker but
not aiming over 150 lbs of torque or over 180hp. So the 71b box will
be plenty strong compared to a 63a anyway.

Have an 8v to play with and looking at this product to fill up the
ports and head chamber as combustion temps dont go over 150 degrees usually?

http://www.durafix.com.au/index.php
http://durafix.com/

looks like the USA supplier has better prices than locally!
Its an OZ original product!!!

Combustion temps in the head go way over 150 degrees.

More like 1050.

anyone know the temp of the combustion chamber
is exposed to? if it over 1000 degrees the alloy
would melt? I always thought the instantaneous
combustion is very high temp but the chamber itself
is much cooler????? confused

the engine coolant carries the heat away, so that it doesn't melt.

If you are carefule to reduce weight, why are using heavy 71B transmission? Can't you use the 63?

D, from memory I think spark plug tips need to stay between 500 and 800 celsius, I think over that you tend to get preignition from the hot tip or other hotspots. So I guess after the spark is delivered you may see temps upward of 800 celsius?

if i could find a bellhousing from the states that
bolts up to the ca16 from the early 80s stanza?

The heat thing is still a big ? mark
I will have to do something with a professional
tig welder and then harden the chamber somehow.
However will be using the durafix rods for building
the inlet port area and sparkplug holes.

Have a look on performance forums for a bloke called TK, he did an epic thread on rebuilding a really shagged and corroded alloy Isuzu head. He cut out chambers and all to rebuild water passages with the TIG and then work hardened it by manually peening it.

EDIT: here you go - shagged Bellett head

Its a great thead and when I read this it back
then I really admired this head design which seems
superior to the a-series in every way but metallurgy.
The peening is careful bashing?, would love to see
how its done, also the welding is an all at once job
or little by little?
Ive seen an L series head with awesome work done to
its chambers by a dude in the US but cant find link ;(
I just wonder if the durafix stuff would suit chambers???

They use welding to fill/reshape the combustion chambers.

In the intake ports they use epoxy.