Yeap i asked you cuz i have done many rear ends narrow em and ordered many axles from Moser as that is what i do for a living and i have done many 8.8 & 9 inch fords plus 8.75 mopar and Dana 60's and that is one of the reasons i never recommend for the low budget guy any C-clip equipped rear end, just for that very same reason,

Most of my customers are Drag racers and or Drifters, and i find out that the OEM Mopar 8.75 can take more abuse than any factory ford 9 inch, 8.8 or any chevy 12 bolts or 10 bolts, and u can find em in any old pre 70 mopar product car or 1/2 ton truck,

So far i have done all of the rear ends mentioned before and to be safe with the 8.8 u need to add the C-clip eliminator that add more cost considerably to the rear end, the same with the 10 & 12 bolt chevy, the factory 9 inch ford is the next best choice but cant compare in strength to the 8.75 mopar in factory form, plus the unequal sized axles made em weaker when cut and resplined plus the separated pinion carrier is the weakest part of the non Nodular 9 inchers, making the 8.75 the best choice as they can stand up to 600 whp of abuse in a light 2000 or less Lbs car, plus you can find gears in every commonly used ratio cheap plus spools and anything you want for future upgrades if needed.

Here is one i did for a friend SR20DET AE86 drifting machine

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c39 ... le%20Uploads/IMG_8852.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c39 ... le%20Uploads/IMG_0469.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c39 ... le%20Uploads/IMG_4837.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c39 ... le%20Uploads/IMG_6968.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c39 ... le%20Uploads/IMG_9493.jpg

And then after transfer all the brackets to the rear end and brakes from the old rear end!

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c39 ... le%20Uploads/ef7b0319.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c39 ... le%20Uploads/06daa51c.jpg

Why mi pictures didnt show up?

I have to eliminate the (img-/img) with the [] so you guys can click on them to see em!

Differential welded in place. post some pictures soon.
Tomorrow my shocks and drum brakes show up. I went with Competition Engineering adjustable drag shocks.
Thought I'd just get them. Won't hurt. $100 for 2 from Summit racing. Ordered the brake shoes as well since I had new rear drums.
No work on the car today. I want to have the shocks before I finish the leaf spring mounts.
After that its getting the draftshaft done to the driveline shop to get modified for the new rearend.

Nice in for pictures when is all together!

Ok. This is what the traction system looks like. Axle rolls back, rod moves forward, pivots plates and pushes back down on the leaf spring. Simple.
I did not think of this but found a website that showed you how to build it.
Purchased the spherical rod ends on ebay, hardware from my trusting hardware store and the steel from again, my trusting steel place. Spent maybe close to $175 in all. $400 if I was to purchase the kit. Happy with the outcome.
Driveline is complete so all that's left is Brake Lines, E-Brake and Brake Pads.
Back on the road shortly.

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This is the setup shown in the Datsun 1200 Competition suspension manual

I see the sway bar but very different. No pivot point on the leaf spring.
Very similar though.

sweet hi-tech setup mate.Looks pretty hard for me to make since i'm no expert hehehe.
is this setup on another 1200 effective as?

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Slapper bars work but are pretty noisy hence the rubber bump stop

That slapper bar is totally ineffective and absolutely worthless. That leaf springs going to rap up even before the rubber knob hits it.
The bar need to extend to the leaf spring attach point and the rubber knob needs to be snug up against it without being under force.
That one there is garbage.