Im going to trace the outside with a permanent marker, remove the pipe and trace again inside the previous traced circle. With a cutting wheel, I can then "X" or rough cut out each hole. After that I can finish it with the router tool to a clean hole.
I still have work to do on the intake. I didnt quite finish it last night. It should flow good, once its done and welded up.

Took my intake down to the weld shop yesterday. At $95/hr, I hope they are nice to me (and fast). I'm going to be in my pocket for this because I still need to build the intake for the supercharger and the Holley 600. So its back to the cutting and grinding. And more aluminum needed.
Racing should start in March so I better pick up the pace.

So this is the latest. Just picked up my manifold. Its not finished yet. Still have to trim the backside, cap it and weld the 90 degree pipe. I left it open so I could clean up the welds on the inside. Little polishing as well.
Turned out pretty good.
Still have to make the intake into the supercharger. I found a Mercedes SLK aluminum intake on ebay so this time I wont have to make the bolt on part to the back side of the supercharger. The last one I built was a little constrictive. The original will work fine. Also to make things easier, Ill get a Holley aluminum adaptor plate and weld that to the intake. This way, I wont have to make that either.
I ended up welding the injector ports. I wont ever go to fuel injection.
Im just plugging along.

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Looks good. How many hours was that lol.

Let's just say it took 90 minutes. lol

The KA motor wouldnt fit in with the sway bar so instead of cutting it out, I relocated it. I just cut it in a few places, added some material a moved it forward. Picture here show's it tacked up ready to be welded.

Currently working on the wiring in the engine compartment. All the bundles are open and Im taking out anything I dont use and consolidating them. Over the years Ive added stuff and just created a new bundle each time so Im trying to clean things up. After that, I can clean and repaint the engine compartment.
Cant work in the intake until the motors in and the car is fully weighted on the ground. Only way to level the carb mount before fabrication.
I need the pigtails for the distributor and alternator so a trip to Pick-n-Pull should be soon.
Moving right along.

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I didn't know you Could do that with away bars, thought the weld spots would be too weak and snap. You might be ready just, in time for racing keep on trucking

I guess we will find out.
My welder can do 3/8 of an inch so thats pretty much the sway bar welding it all a the way around. The welder did a pretty good job. Besides, I wont be doing any Rally Road races, just Dragging.
I do know that the bar is made out of hardened steel.
Picked up a pigtail for both the KA alternator and Distibutor. The Alternator is a no brainer but the Distibutor I may need some help.

I got the Distibutor pigtail off a Nissan Altima. Same plug but aparently 4 wire colors are different than the 240sx. I have a Black, Orange, Blue and Yellow wire.
I do know that one has to be 12 volts, one has to be a Ground, one I believe is connected to the negative side of the coil and one is not used. But what is what, I have no clue. Any help would be appriciated. Thanks.

I conversed with Datzenmike over on Ratsun.com and he told me that the KA distributor will not work without an ECU. He said is have to use a modified L or Z series dizzy or go with a Crank Fire system.
Somehow, I'll make it work. Any ideas?

Maybe fit the L-series pickup and stator into the KA distributor?

Or use crank-fire. I have a complete setup here, $200.