Nice outside the box thinking with the elect. Vents. No pun intended.

you know you could have just got the heater core rebuilt?

finding a good tap is probably the harder part. but you can always just go a tap style one under the dash

Set back 999,999

Contact for welding manifold fell through
Chasing up a few leads like sikyne and couple others but really keen to get this on Compared to stock manifold. I modded the Tb and cable bracket already so sort of committed now.
At least got ally pipe to.suit.now. Thanks rc much appreciated.
Budget still tight as am I lol.

Help me obi one.

Oh will give why I want to use this too. It means I can do a permanent impco system set up for Lpg but that then positions every thing for a dream of turbo if I ever want to go that way on this motor. The inlet and system will new good to go. Just add.turbo and exhaust I pipe set up and oil feed.... Hehehe

had a brain fart at work when on break... after i got off phone to welder that said can weld for $300- off to see another tomoorrow morning before work that has a 3rd year apprenicte currently that can do cheaper maybe. he will check welds to make sure ok though.

anyway, if too hard to weld new runners, thought i have a spare su manifold for l series, could i mount plenum to that with some steel spacers i could weld up on my mig.
if i get 6mm steel plate then drill a hole for the fuel/air mix and two mouning holes to the manifold.... weld exhaust pipe to the flange and run at the length i want. then weld a rectangle flange at the other end.... that flange will require me cutting runners off plenum and making rectangle holes . i would need to drill 4 holes in the corners and feed bolt though.

the idea would be to sandwhich gasket paper and silicon to seal the plate to the plenum and then use nuts to bolt to the, together creating a seal with clamping force.
8 bolts would support the weight and clamp the new spacers in place.

this gives runners a length of 20cm for cyl 1 19.75 for cyl 2 cyl 3would be 18.75 and cyl 4 18.5

approximated the tapered runner measurements of the factory l18e manifold i saw (almost bought it had been ported to 40mm and also the head studs are in a different spot. didnt want to tap the head again for new head studs)

pics might explain better.





the silicon remeasured was 30mm from exhaust runners, still too close for radient temps for the silicon to be reliable imho.

well going to be $3-400to weld the manifold... going to shelve it for now. dont have the coin for that kind of costs now.

so bolted the stock manifold back on and had to remod the throttle body to fit it as i modded it for the plenum set up.

every thing back on and ready to test... now the accelerator pedals broken. the part that connects to the floor. need to sort out some kind of pedal. CRAP!!!!!

will hook up battery and trun her over tomorrow hopefully and see if any weird noises emerge. hopefully not after a couple of months.

hope i sont get weird noises from the gear box like i did before. i was thinking of dds problems. but my clutch appeared ok on inspection. hope it was just the box cause i CBF taking it out again at the moment.

just run a heat sheild over the extractors....stop thinking so much into it

and like i said, no to the adaptor idea. just make a plenum off the su manifold if you are going to do that. easier to just buy a length of aluminium SHS and 2 bits of pipe then get it all welded together. or steel

and do you want a new accelerator pedal? ill probably have one kicking around

Its nice to have a aluminum welder at work. What sucks is that i need to get better at using it. :)

i think i hate you and your ali welder

well cars al together and i decided to start her up...... statrted first go. no rough idle nothing! flet beautiful giving it a rev in N in the car port. sounded great.

anyway tacho not working. gave up tracing wires as it started to drizzle.

but im annoyed. put car in R and it rolls yay. put in 1st roll forward, nice its got drive. put it back in N and i hear that friging rattle again!!!! yes. After swappping boxes its unlikely to be the box.

So car in N and foot off clutch, rattle comes from behind engine. near starter from what i hear.
put foot on clutch it disappears. GRRRRR havent test driven yet as i was annoyed.

So it could be clutch rattle (maybe one of the springs came loose on hill climb in dec)? could it bee loose fly?

when box was out clutch looked good, all the splines were on the cover.... or could it be just the throw out bearing.

im at a stage of trying to find a mechanic to help me out.

i was also reading up and apparently lightened flywheels and hd clutchs tend to do this over time.

i just dont want to loose my legs from something crapping its self in there.

Revheads heard the noise and said gear box bearing. chaning boxes and same noise?
HELP ME...

but it shifts easily .