Ja, sounds good. Now get the gear ratios (first to 5th) for your box you using and calc the rpm drop between each gear-change. Mine was a balls-up between 2nd & 3rd (w58 cressida box)

Below is calculated with 14" Semi Slicks

GearCalc v2.0.0.3 Copyright ©2001, Peter Ogden
Gear Ratio, Speed and RPM Calculator

Gear set: Manually entered values
Gear 1 2 3 4 5 Final
Ratios: 3.321 1.902 1.308 1.000 0.838 3.640

RPM Limit: 8000
RPM @Peak Power: 7500
Tyre Size: 185/55 x 14
Tyre Diameter: 559.10 mm
Tyre Circumference: 1756.46 mm


Gear Km/h per 1000 RPM Km/h @7500 RPM Km/h @8000 RPM
--------------------------------------------------------
1 8.72 65 70
2 15.22 114 122
3 22.14 166 177
4 28.95 217 232
5 34.55 259 276


Gear Change RPM drop (change @7500) RPM drop (change @8000)
-------------------------------------------------------------
1 -> 2 -3205 (to 4295) -3418 (to 4582)
2 -> 3 -2342 (to 5158) -2498 (to 5502)
3 -> 4 -1766 (to 5734) -1884 (to 6116)
4 -> 5 -1215 (to 6285) -1296 (to 6704)

bones is that helpful, any nasties that you can see

31 July 2010 – Rear Suspension – Phase II

On arrival I had a cup of coffee and moved down to the workshop where me and my father started the planning as he was scheduled to be away for the weekend, this provided me with a unique opportunity to pre make some metal pieces that will be used for the rear suspension. it took us quite a while to get everything measured up. Luckily we already knew exactly how we wanted to do it.








Saturday morning started early for me as I wanted to get all the work done and enable me to do some sealing on the Sunday. First off all I grinded the welds in the boot to remove all the sharp edges and proceeded to paint it.






The real work started, making all the wishbone brackets for the lower differential frame and the uprights for the lower wishbones. These pieces will be welded on to the uprights for fastening the wishbones and on the lower sub frame, but on the lower frame we will make these brackets to be full adjustable, this will enable me to adjust suspension in such a manner to get rid of the imperfections or to adjust Toe. I even went as far with these brackets to use a brand new cut off disc to do the cutting, I wanted these brackets to have 100% 90degree cuts.




The previous weekend we designed the upright and I had that lazercutted, as well some brackets that had to be from flat iron. From the picture you can see the scribe lines that will be used to drill the holes for the hub carriers and brake calipers.








During the week my father welded together the lower sub frame and drilled the holes for the wishbone mounting brackets. Holes were drilled to 16mm diameter and I had to make same bushes to insert in the holes and weld on, this will add strength and ensure that the tubing used will not bend when fasting the bracket. The frame was designed in such a way that it has a removable rear section which will ease the removable of the diff.




My next 5hour shift in front of the lathe began, it was my task to make all the bushes, wishbone and sub frame, total 29 of them. Luckily the previous week I bought myself some cutting liquid to aid the hole drilling, Rocol RTD, this is black magic in a bottle. Started off with cutting the inner wishbone bushes with the cut off machine and proceeded to the lathe to machine them down to size and inner and outer chamfers, the same with the lower sub frame bushes, drilled the holes, luckily only holes had to be drilled in sub frame bushes as these was made from solid metal.










Started designing the new sump, a nice job after standing for 5 hours on your feet, lying on your back measuring a sump is then fun. Made a rough mockup from pieces of scrap metal to determine clearances between the cross member. Just before I had my final design done, I realized that I did not allow enough clearance for a anti roll bar.

Sunday morning up nice and early and started with sealing some of the inner seams, what a job this is turning out to be, looking back I'm quite angry that I ever thought of the idea to seal all the seams, but I'm pretty sure at the end of the day I will look back and not even be able to lay a finger on it and say hell that was a crappy thing to do.




My father arrived back home and at last I had some one that could help me to hold the old anti roll bar in place for me to see if it will still be usable, as expected no, another item that will be added to the list of custom made parts.

I can't wait to get home to assemble the uprights on the next visit, at last something will be done that you can look at.

independent rear end? looks brutally wild and effective like most of African wildlife :)

Bones you run a w58?

Yip, IRS is the way I'm going with, biggest reason for this extreme is the fact that sourcing a LS unit in this country is a waste of time for our Borg Warner units.

my corolla zzz engine used to rev out to 75kmh in first gear (had 6 but only 5 really usable ones) but that was at 8200rpm ;)

was good long first and 2nd for tight and sweeping roads, using the vvtli to do the work. the exhaust and induction noise is also great.

the neo should be similar in na power delivery

The problem most of us face is finding a good rear end that doesnt cost the
world and is light enough to maintain the datsun difference.
Looking at your work Im really thinking now of using a fwd pintara lsd box with
a CA18 and sitting behind me. That way I have my cheap lsd and 5 speed all in one
and there is no problem hiding the wiring in the rear or pollution gear if need be.
These kind of projects make me foam at the mouth and dream which sounds like I suffer
Epilepsy which I prob do when I see great projects.

Have you thought of getting some 2 door sedan doors and moving the pillar?
It just that with this amount of work, some longer doors will add more value.

unfamilia - if I'm able to get 75km/h I'll be more than happy, currently I'm doing 58.1km/h (tested with a GPS) with the UTE, 3.89:1 diff at 7500rpm. I just hope my calculation is correct and that it will work. I have way to many unknowns.

D - that crossed my mind, but for sure they will stick me in the special class with a mid mount setup, something I'm not really looking forward to, the idea is to build one crazy RWD under 2.0lt car. But it could be one outrageous project that I'm crazy enough to tackle. The 2 door idea is great, I found some pictures on this site about a orange 2 door one, I think in Portugal, I love it, but again, I think I know of 2 two doors in RSA, so more items I would have to make.
D you think you have foam around the mouth, wait until I post the latest update, finished the uprights, calipers, rotors, lower diff subframe, diff mounted to it, and the lower wishbones.

Still need to source some decent flares. - This is the biggest obstacle. Help help

While I foam away youre like a Beaver pre-winter!
I still think with your ability and productivity you could easily do what
many do by making a longer door from cuting and shutting 2 shorter doors.
Youll probably be running lexan windows with pod ventilation so will make it easier.
Either way the Sr20ve is one mighty beast and a shame nothing else will replace
it in the near future or ever. Well worth the investment and no flares will be
big enough for the tires youll need to keep that thing from wheel spinning
in such a light body :)