ok nigel this is the site and page for the carby kits and im after the kit on the left 40PHH

part number = Kit Part # Z70-1040 =$49.95 for both
pump diaphram to suit 40PHH s4 or s5 carby= $25 for 1 but i need 2
and carby isolators to suit the 40phh carbys = $35 (2) i need 4 so X2


postage =$15

so $185 ,if you tell them what the go is then i can transfer you some money nige

Need a web address mate.

http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index. ... t-kits&catid=30&Itemid=51 ok thats it nigel

ok update !

thanks the chris for those gaskets the ute is now up and running ,i have put my new linkages on and am getting stacks and filters of mike ,then i need to get the rust and paint sorted ,but first things first

i went for a drive yesterday ,and i did a few skids haha
the carbys going good and the only problems ive had are

A)engine drops revs pretty slowly which is annoying when trying to change gears sensably ,cos it jerks around alot

B) i put the timing light on it and the timing is at around 40 degrees when the markings stop at 20 !!! so i dont know if ive got the plug leads around the wrong way ,but then it runs smooth so ???

and i have been fiddling with the timing cos it does the occasional pop through the carbys but it isnt a constant thing

C) and it seems to idle abit high ,i have screwed the idle screws all the way in ,and there was little difference in idle speed ,but then i think they are only idle air mixtures .is there another adjustment i should know about ??

im going to have a look through my service book ,but any real life experience would be very much appreciated !

oh and i would like to pulicly thank chris lyons for sending me those kits ,i wouldnt have it running with out those float cover gaskets !!!

i owe you chris ,anything you need let me know

No worries!

A) yes.

B) I dunno.

C) Lean pops are sort of common but it took me a while to get rid of mine, check manifold seals and ensure it's all airtight. A bad seal will also affect the engine idle.

Also check the throttle valves/butterflies are closing properly when you back the throttle off as this may be influencing the idle rpm.

If the carbs are slow to power down or slow to respond when you remove your foot off the pedal, be sure to check the starter discs are positioned correctly and that they aren't engaging on their own and over fueling the primary circuit, the starter discs are often held back in the off position by a small spring. Mine tended to creep up when I didn't have the springs on them so I've hard-wired them shut.

This over-fueling in conjunction with a manifold leak may contribute to the situation where you have lean pops and an engine hesitant to come off acceleration.

Personally I think it's all in the adjustment of the linkages, I think as you floor it the arms are slipping so when you remove your foot they aren't returning to their proper position. Have you been pulling the pedal back up with your foot to see if this affects the idle speed?

The lean pops are also a result of you having screwed the pilot mixture screws in too far, you may also have damaged the pilot screw tip by seating it too far in so that they have deformed. This damage or seating to the needle will mean they are delivering far more fuel than what is intended for that particular amount of screw turns. So this explains why you may be finding the carbs perform best when the pilot screws are screwed all the way in, but loose alot of their performance when the screws are only a little way out.

I damaged my pilot screws and replaced them with the pilot screws off a Mitsubishi Colt/Sigma/Magna etc etc Mikuni carb which are exactly the same (the screw not the carb).

But basically you need to try everything before anyone can pinpoint the problem. The tiniest bit of adjustment can bring a huge performance difference for the good or for the worse.

Also don't forget that the spark plugs are a really good indication of what's going on combustion-wise (lean/rich etc) so be sure the check those when you can.

Mikuni's also weren't fitted with throttle shaft ball bearings (unlike the weber sidedrafts). It might be worthwhile checking that they return nicely and don't have any hesitation near of before closed throttle valve position. Throttle valves slightly open mean the progression holes are partially, if not completely exposed on the vacuum side meaning they will inject more fuel into the air/fuel mixture, hereby affecting rpm.

Quote:

And lastly, yes there is another adjustment (highlighted in red) which is the idle speed screws. You should have set these up when you synchronized them anyway so they should be good. Check that both screws that hold the mounting bracket for the idles speed screws are in place I was running one screw for a short while and the idle speed screw plate would rotate and put one carb out. Had to wait for a screw from the states before I could fix that issue (yeah I was willing to wait for one OEM replacement screw).

The spring I mentioned goes between the starter disc cover and the bracket (highlighted in green) so in this image my starter mechanism or choke is partially, almost fully engaged (then again the bracket could be on the wrong side, meaning the choke is disengaged, can't remember)

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  Mikuni Carbs.jpg (127.04 KB)

well ive gotta hand it to you chris you know your stuff with carbys!!


well im getting new base gaskets (oring with spring and cup) tomorrow ,and ive got new redline linkages fitted and the rebuild kits are on ,but when i pulled one of the carbys apart to put the new throttle shaft seals in ,i noticed that one of them looked to have a twist in it ,so i might buy a new shaft if i can find one !

oh and when balancing them i noticed that the sound changed through out both carbys ,the front carby has a kinda clicking/girgling noise ,and the second throat on the front carby has a faint clicky noise

and then the rear carbys first throat has the same noise as the front carbys first throat and the the second carby has the same noise as the first carbys second throat

i know it sounds strange but it puzzled me too !
front carby
throat 1 =clicking/girgling
throat 2 =clicking
rear carby
throat 3 =clicking/girgling
throat 4 =clicking

so does that make sense ??

NO - But good luck with it, Did you get the extractors swapped yet?

wow just seen that picture chris ,wanna sell them ?????

where did you get your parts from ?


and my adjusters arent that fancy but they are just a plate with a spring held screw that pushes on the throttle shaft

can i buy a kit that will have the same ones as yours and whats the go with the plastic starters ?