Arg great info guys but painting seems like such a daunting task now,,,tho it was bad enough before ;)
I know my wags need a coat before too long, its still pretty rust free, but things like inside the holes in the cross-floor-box-sections (body cross members? whatev you call them?) have some rust that will be hard to get at without blasting.
It seems there are as many ways to do it right as to do it wrong!

D is this the link you were talking about? Ive always liked the idea of this method...if only for the fact that it would be dirt cheap and you can take your time with it...like painting your car over a few months might give you no reason to take shortcuts and only needing to prep one area at a time. But if it were that simple maybe there might be more people doing it :/

So edp youre saying just use no converters whatsoever after ensuring all the rust has been cut out? To neutralise a converter with water seems like its just risking more rust in some areas. then what...is it always nessecary to etch-prime on bare metal?

all rust needs to be removed
all bare metal needs to be primed or rust-protected

rust is cancer it will come back even if you manage to cut it out and do the fancy remove n replace trick, there 40 year old cars and been through long rainy days, moist days n what ever else. there just gonna rust on the next pannel ;)

alot of you guys mention brands like wattle,dulux.

highly non recomend i would never use cheap stuff..

has your car has been blasted,repaired and primed,has it been blocked down and final sanding done,is it sealed have you got the paint and clear and hardeners these are some questions i would be asking to give a ball park figure on paintjob.If all these things are done to YOUR satisfaction and you only wanted someone to lay the paint on i will paint it for free yep to help out a datsun fan FREE paint job considering all of the above is completed.and if all the above is completed and you have done it all yourself, PAINT IT YOURSELF just for the selfsatisfaction

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You might like to check with your paint suppliers (paint brand) and see what aussie company actually manufactures the paint for them. Not all but some.

If you are referring to house paint that's another story.

POR15 is good $hit, im not saying you should paint over rust but its a good product.
I just had my 1000 done. It cost 2k and its a nice job done in a booth. They used debeers paint which im really happy with. Its a sweedish paint. I also got told PPG is ok. They told me a few others but can't remember. I do remember they said no protec or septone.

Don't paint it outside use a booth
Don't use cheap products
Don't use rattle cans
Don't paint it your self unless you are confident and practise

If you fu#k it up nobody will want to help you and it will cost heaps more to do right next time.

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Yes, thats what I'm saying. I'm not trying to "scare" anyone away from anything just inform of the possibilities that exist.


phunkdoktaspok,
Again, your choice - if you feel like I'm fear mongering then by all means wash the sh*t our of your car w/phosphoric acid then paint it - good luck with that. the only thing that stuff does is convert the top layer to black oxide but underneath that layer is more lovely red rust - try it and see for yourself. Point here is your just covering it up - thats all! so if thats fear mongering then enjoy your rust.

The factory "E" coats that come on new panels is an epoxy of some sort to my understanding which is what I used as an metal sealer prior to paint.

Look, the message her is educate yourself & dont get fooled by quick fix, cheater products. If your going to paint why go to all the effort just to F it up.

datto13b wrote:

alot of you guys mention brands like wattle,dulux.

highly non recomend i would never use cheap stuff..

funkdatkota wrote.

You might like to check with your paint suppliers (paint brand) and see what aussie company actually manufactures the paint for them. Not all but some.

If you are referring to house paint that's another story.




ive been working in my dads panel shop since i was 13yrs old, so i know exactly what im talking about and i know every brand out there i use nothing but glasurit paint systems,its the only brand i would use...

if you can tell me better than that brand i would like to know seeing as you think i got no clue on this matter..

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Mate I never said you have no clue. But you did confirm my point.
Find out who makes Glasurit Clear. You will get a surprise.

so what product u recoment after blasting just a primer or somthing else