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edp
Re: cost of paiting
#33
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so what product u recoment after blasting just a primer or somthing else


a decent 2K epoxy & your good to go. Clean the surface after blasting as well, you never know if you've got oil from the air line on the metal or some contaminant that'll cause problems later. Dawn dish soap works wonders. Dont worry about that kind of surface rust, if your in a room temp place & can blow dry w/an airhose that'll work great. Epoxy holds to bare blasted metal REALLY well!

Quote:
edp. if you just paint deoxidene on and thats it, you cant expect the best. Using it correctly is another thing.


I understand that, I'm just trying to point out that its really an unnecessary step that has a lot more negatives associated with its use then positives - IMHO its just not worth it. Guys who know nothing about painting are going to glom onto shortcuts when it does then no good & thats all that stuff is - a shortcut. It has its place, just not underneath a cars paint job.

Posted on: 2011/1/11 1:52
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phunkdoktaspok
Re: cost of paiting
#32
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datscrazzzzzy wrote:
so what product u recoment after blasting just a primer or somthing else

Stick to one brand with all your paint products and use what ever that brand requires you to use. Do your research with the paint manufacturer and follow the process they recommend.

Posted on: 2011/1/10 23:46
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phunkdoktaspok
Re: cost of paiting
#31
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edp. if you just paint deoxidene on and thats it, you cant expect the best. Using it correctly is another thing.

Im not referring to the coating on replacement panels. Datsun 1000's were dipped from factory - this is what I am referring to D.

Posted on: 2011/1/10 23:42
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datscrazzzzzy
Re: cost of paiting
#30
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so what product u recoment after blasting just a primer or somthing else

Posted on: 2011/1/10 23:36
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datsun or girlfriend ?hard choice
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phunkdoktaspok
Re: cost of paiting
#29
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datto13b wrote:
ive been working in my dads panel shop since i was 13yrs old, so i know exactly what im talking about and i know every brand out there i use nothing but glasurit paint systems,its the only brand i would use...

if you can tell me better than that brand i would like to know seeing as you think i got no clue on this matter..


Mate I never said you have no clue. But you did confirm my point.
Find out who makes Glasurit Clear. You will get a surprise.

Posted on: 2011/1/10 23:35
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datto13b
Re: cost of paiting
#28
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datto13b wrote:

alot of you guys mention brands like wattle,dulux.

highly non recomend i would never use cheap stuff..

funkdatkota wrote.

You might like to check with your paint suppliers (paint brand) and see what aussie company actually manufactures the paint for them. Not all but some.

If you are referring to house paint that's another story.




ive been working in my dads panel shop since i was 13yrs old, so i know exactly what im talking about and i know every brand out there i use nothing but glasurit paint systems,its the only brand i would use...

if you can tell me better than that brand i would like to know seeing as you think i got no clue on this matter..

Posted on: 2011/1/10 21:31
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edp
Re: cost of paiting
#27
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So edp youre saying just use no converters whatsoever after ensuring all the rust has been cut out? To neutralise a converter with water seems like its just risking more rust in some areas. then what...is it always nessecary to etch-prime on bare metal?


Yes, thats what I'm saying. I'm not trying to "scare" anyone away from anything just inform of the possibilities that exist.


phunkdoktaspok,
Again, your choice - if you feel like I'm fear mongering then by all means wash the sh*t our of your car w/phosphoric acid then paint it - good luck with that. the only thing that stuff does is convert the top layer to black oxide but underneath that layer is more lovely red rust - try it and see for yourself. Point here is your just covering it up - thats all! so if thats fear mongering then enjoy your rust.

The factory "E" coats that come on new panels is an epoxy of some sort to my understanding which is what I used as an metal sealer prior to paint.

Look, the message her is educate yourself & dont get fooled by quick fix, cheater products. If your going to paint why go to all the effort just to F it up.

Posted on: 2011/1/10 17:12
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Gav
Re: cost of paiting
#26
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POR15 is good $hit, im not saying you should paint over rust but its a good product.
I just had my 1000 done. It cost 2k and its a nice job done in a booth. They used debeers paint which im really happy with. Its a sweedish paint. I also got told PPG is ok. They told me a few others but can't remember. I do remember they said no protec or septone.

Don't paint it outside use a booth
Don't use cheap products
Don't use rattle cans
Don't paint it your self unless you are confident and practise

If you fu#k it up nobody will want to help you and it will cost heaps more to do right next time.

Posted on: 2011/1/10 11:44
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phunkdoktaspok
Re: cost of paiting
#25
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Quote:

datto13b wrote:

alot of you guys mention brands like wattle,dulux.

highly non recomend i would never use cheap stuff..


You might like to check with your paint suppliers (paint brand) and see what aussie company actually manufactures the paint for them. Not all but some.

If you are referring to house paint that's another story.

Posted on: 2011/1/10 11:22
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gxcoupe
Re: cost of paiting
#24
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has your car has been blasted,repaired and primed,has it been blocked down and final sanding done,is it sealed have you got the paint and clear and hardeners these are some questions i would be asking to give a ball park figure on paintjob.If all these things are done to YOUR satisfaction and you only wanted someone to lay the paint on i will paint it for free yep to help out a datsun fan FREE paint job considering all of the above is completed.and if all the above is completed and you have done it all yourself, PAINT IT YOURSELF just for the selfsatisfaction

Posted on: 2011/1/10 9:14
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