The engine is a genuine 1400 gx purchased from A1 imports around the early to mid 80"s. All unnessary polution gear was removed and blocked for simplicity. This engine has been rebuilt twice after this time the last being around 2 years ago . The bore was still in good order so no boring required. The cam was a Ivan Tighe grind but not too sure of timing as i find the specs quite confusing but i rang Ivan and told him of the engine and carbys etc and this was his reccomendation. Sounds good and went very well for its state of tune. The carbys were tuned and had SU needles fitted by Park Road garage of Salisbury, A carb specialist in Brisbane. The timing chain was also replaced at the rebuild and the head was overhauled by Engine engineering of Rocklea. Rings and bearing were of course replaced at this time. So a good basically original GX Engine is what you have.

wow, looking great. a lot in common with my coupe in terms of style

i have fitted the h190 with cable hand brake, you dont have to go hydraulic to get a h190 in (if thats what you meant)

Lovely car mate.

It should go very well with the L series in it.

Any chance of a side on shot when you have time?

Cheers Matty

wrong pcd on the tailshaft...thats a bit weird as its a BW flange thats had the bolt holes enlarged
might just need a toyota BW diff flange on the 120y diff.

if you run a h190 you can just put a h165 flange on the back of the tailshaft...think i might have sent one with it

this is just awesome!!

got the 4.6 ratio H190 diff in over the weekend, it is 40mm wider overall than the previous diff, wheels still fit in the flares good, the car looks wider now from the rear which is awesome. I will upload more pics soon.

I'll have to take some pics of the rear disc and caliper set up as I have no idea what they are from, the guy I got the diff off didn't know, he only knew it only ran a hydraulic handbrake, i can't see where the handbrake cables would go, the calipers look like they may be HZ fronts as they are quite a large diameter solid rotor and Girlock caliper.

Pigdog the tail shaft you sent me, with the H190 now in that tail shaft almost fits, it's about 2inches too short and the flange bolt spacing is almost right, would it be ok to file out the holes or would that cause unbalancing?

I'll need to get the tail shaft lengthened anyway, or has anyone used tail shaft spacers before like 4x4 guys do?

Thanks Bezman, i was close to going ca18 but I'm glad i've kept it old school. I'm going for the JDM look, i'll be blacking the bonnet, rear tail light panel, maybe fender mirrors, maybe a GX5 side stripe and i've been hunting for a Mk1 Golf duckbill type front spoiler but the world seems to be sold out.

Bezman, whats your front splitter from? It looks great

cheers

love the ideas... except maybe the black bonnet

with customs discs on the h190 then the provision for cables might not be there obviously, i was assuming you had the original drums

yeah they don't seem to have any levers or hooks where a handbrake line would connect which makes me think they are a front caliper off something. The diff was probably set up for rally with that ratio and a hydraulic handbrake.
Anyone know if a hydralic hanbrake is legal if i get a locking pin? Would I need a duel brake line block thing so i can run a line from the handbrake master if I go that way?

Are you sure this isn't a Bluebird TRx style rear disc's with the internal drum brake handbrake set up removed. I know that they used to use Toyota Corona front discs & calipers on the rear of the rally datsuns, maybe that's what you have. All I can suggest is calling Stewart Wilkins on 02-4577-2400 & ask him about what is needed for a road legal hydralic handbrake set up. He might even be able to supply parts to make it work. BTW love the car, but I agree with Mick, no black bonnet.

Love it. I'll be following this closely as I'm working on an L18 in my 1200