[url]http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgccz/technic/pointless.pdf[/url]

i pulled this pic:

from that pdf.. the module housing deft looks the same as a bluebird s2

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on the dizzy stamped on the side is:

9 230 064 519
U-PGFU 4
22100-V9600

I found an old post on ozdat containing those numbers but no info about what the dizzy was off.. apparently feral erral was in on the conversation:
Conversation About Dizzy

It's an 81-83 bluebird dizzy!!!
L20 BOSCH-electr 9 230 064 519 BS 0246 **

a guy on the morris forums found a bosch catalogue!

Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 4:56 pm Post subject:
wow grant!
thanks so much! been looking everywhere!!


i've talked it over with my auto engineer friend and we're going to take the car back to standard.. i don't mind points..

would it mean i need to change the coil im currently using??

i guess time to post in the classifieds.. wtb: standard a12 dizzy in good condition!

It appears to be a bosch dizzy, basically the same (save for being 4 cylinder) as the bosch hei units on blue motor holdens.

Try an experiment. Disconnect the vac advance and plug the hose and run it. It'll lose a little bit of part throttle response, due to no extra advance for light throttle conditions, but see if it clears the problem up a little bit or changes the rpm range that it happens at.

If it does, the vacuum advance isn't actually the problem, that's just a sneaky way of testing for another one.

Anyway - what can happen on the holdens, and might happen here too (esp if the kill switch overheated stuff) is when you take the two screws off the tin plate covering the hei module, you'll see 4 wires. If the colour coding is the same as the holdens, there's a pink and a green - they go to the coil. (from memory pink goes to coil plus green to coil negative) Then there are two thinner black wires that go into the dizzy main body. They usually have different sized plugs so you can't get them the wrong way around. But they are thin wires, and as the vac advance slides the top section of the dizzy, over time they can rub against the main body somewhere and start to short out. sometimes only at very specific rpms when the vibrations, mech advance/friction, the moon, the stars in alignment, whatever, and it causes a problem only in a certain rpm range. If that is the case, you have to be careful here, but you can dismantle or another option if you can find the bared wire section (it can also have a break in the wire that pulls and loses contact, or has poor contact/current carrying ability at certain angles)and paint some rubber paint on it.

Another thing that is admittedly less likely - is that the coil is wired in back to front. If you pull the dizzy wires off the coil for a second, there should be no current to the coil. When you turn the key to on, you should get 12v to the +ve terminal. It can still 'run' wired back to frnt, but tends not to run well, or last long.

IF it doesn't get a full 12v (or more when the motor is running) to the +ve terminal, get rid of the ballast resistor. these modules are meant to get a full 12v (and it was one of the many often overlooked pitfalls when swapping later model commodore dizzies onto early red motor holdens for better spark.

The commodore hei coil will work if you can get one cheaper, but the terminal on the coil is male (most are female). TO get the same spec coil (if they don't list one for a bluey, or you are looking for a price break based on it coming off a more common car) then the last of the ford clevelands afaik had the right spec coil, and the last of the ford 250 pushrod engines too.

I just read where you want to put a points dizzy back in there - I think you're crazy (just kidding) but if you want, I'll happily swap you a points dizzy for your one.

Hi John,
thank you for such an informative and complete post.. I will follow what you have said and try a combination of those out!
Regards,
Tom

haha i think im a little crazy too.. I'd like to look at it and keep it but id like to have a points setup too as a spare..

I do wonder as alot of people have said the coil must be specific and mine most certainly isnt..

Cheers,
Tom

Hi John,
I just tried the dizzy with a bosch hec715 bluebird replacement coil.. the difference in the curve through the rev range was a beautiful thing.. alas it is still sputtering through certain rev ranges under load.. the only thing i could think of trying next would be replacing the module..
opened the casing and the wires to it all seem fine and newish!

seeing as ive had some amazing people help me out with parts and take time out to give wonderful advice I'll be going back to points and am happy to be doing so! but just thought i'd let you know i'd eliminated another factor and still no luck..

the prob is most certainly electrical.. wiring the ballast resistor will be interesting (thanks for the instructions) because i have a positive from the coil to the dizzy and negative from the coil to the dizzy and then a cream wire also connected to the positive which i can't trace back (it heads off into the loom but im assuming it's 12v+)

but as such! will have a brand new (used once around the block to test, bought this morning and have the reciept hec715 to sell very shortly either separately or with the dizzy!)

if it improved with the coil, could it be that it needs a regraph to match the motor? L20 and aseries have totally differnt requirements and curves.

I have had my spare elec dizzy regraphed and locked to suit my L16. was on another L16 but who knows what was done- it had a big cam of some sort(and thats sitting in my back yard to now that i think about it).


Havent installed yet but locked and regraphed im 99% confident mine will be a lot better too. I decided to lock it after it was regraphed as they couldnt get the right springs to limit the mechanical advance over christmas, so easier to lock it.

i don't know if its a curve thing.. it really is some kind of electrical sputtering at a certain rev range.. most auto elecs i called really didn't offer much in the way of a can do yes i can look at it.. are there any good contacts for this kind of dizzy work?

either way.. i really really need a champion or echlin part number for a stock late model a12 ballast resistor.. repco, auto one etc aren't sure.. i went to see both today..

Cheers,
Tom