i know how you feel tom, been chaisng around for wheel bearings for a 200b all day- tell them they are the same as stanza and get laughed at. most place need to order from the manufactuer... 3 week wait and $35 to $45 a side! debating if to try ebay.

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The cog that meshes into the cam shaft gear is located on the end of the distributor shaft with a roll pin. The roll pin is simply a piece of flat metal rolled over to make a shaft or sleeve, this sleeve (roll pin) locates and secures the distributor cog/drive, it's purpose serves as locating & securing pin. So at the top of the cog you will see a hole that travels right through the shaft out to the other side. And this roll pin is pressed or tapped into and through the hole to secure the gear.

The E15 dizzy almost identical to the A-series distributor [in it's lower half design] except that it has a different fitting at the end (not a spiral cog). The wiki article says to remove this and the A-series cog, from a A-series distributor will slide over the shaft except the shaft has no hole for you to put the roll pin through. So you need to drill the hole through the shaft so as you can then press or tap this rooll pin into and therefore secure the cog to the shaft of the distributor.

If you have a stock distributor at hand you will notice that when you pull on the cog there is a slight bit of movement, that gap is 'the clearance required' that you need to judge when drilling and installing the new cog gear.

I can upload some pics if you like??

unfamilia - yeah! it has been quite an epic adventure~! I've found someone on ebay selling gt40r coils with resistors but i dunno if that'd be the right resistor.. i guess it would but i don't like guessing!

clyons8 - some pics would be brilliant but I've decided to go back to the points system and once it's up and running ill sell my bluebird conversion complete with a brand new coil i bought today but for now it's a backup!

i really am beginning to think it's the module.. but i'd love to find someone who does dizzy repairs and just take the dizzy and coil to them and "say test and make it work" most auto elecs i've called want the whole car there but now i've removed the dizzy and coil to make way for the stock setup it's easier to just take the parts in!

for the stock wiring i only have 1 wire going to my coil + at present.. there's supposed to be 2 for the stock wiring i think but dunno how to track it down!

Thomen, how did you go?

I should have read the start of the thread. I have the same bosch distributor with the same issues!

I am just trying a few basic things and I will get back to you.

I can't even get idle, very big backfires and weak spark on 3 cylinders.

I have gone back to stock.. bought a stock dizzy, coil, resistor and actually ended up with 2 sets of them!

I tried the bluebird dizzy with a brand new hec715 coil as i thought that would be the prob.. but no still sputtering just though a certain part of the range.. my next guess would be that the ignition module got fried by the killswitch.. funnily enough a brand new BIM024 module has arrived today!

so im thinking one of two things.. keep the stock setup and sell the bluebird setup complete with new module and brand new coil OR try fitting up the new module and un doing the wiring changes and changing the coil over then giving that a go again.. I found adjusting the rear adjuster screw made subtle but effective differences when troubleshooting..

not sure what to do really.. i have some friends who have points and have never had an issue with them and i have others who say the electronic dizzy changed their driving lives! so kinda caught in the middle of 2 camps! haha

The problem is the module.

Mine is a similar unit except it has had the module installed as a separate piece, you can see the scorcher label is actually stuck to a cover plate which I think is where the 'box' or module was installed (as with your dizzie).

I will have a new module in about 3 hours so I will let you know then.

I had the car running sweet, the brakes weren't bled yet so I left it till the next day. When I had the car ready to go it wouldn't even start. I re-did the timing, stripped the carbs, swapped the carbs and checked for vacuum leaks. When I swapped a new coil in early this morning, it was obvious the spark was still very, very week. Should have checked the spark first, however, I did find that some water had found it's way into my carbs so I was kinda glad.

I rang an auto-electrician to get some prices to have a look and he insisted that it was the little black module. He said they fail frequently and I am best to buy a spare to have in the car. The module was priced at $60.00. I could have gotten ti cheaper but want-it-now means bigger bucks.

Why don;t you just take it into an auto electrician and ask that he have a look, otherwise take it straight in and request to have the module replaced. The chances of the actual dizzie failing a fairly remote, all it is is a hall sensor setup and some bearings.

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I've said this before and I'll say it again. When you put a 'working' hei style dizzy and coil into a car that was on points, the result is so good, you'll wish it was the first thing you did when you bought the car. I say this because everyone I've helped put hei on their car (old holdens, various valiants, even slants, using a hemi dizzy and bosch module) has said those exact words, almost identically each and every time.

They just kick butt for cold starts and throttle response, fuel efficiency, you name it. They might not make a lot more peak power (unless the rpms are higher to the point the points don't like it) than perfectly adjusted points, but the mid range, the gains across the range, it all adds up.

Cars that used to foul plugs due to hot cams (where racers would previously start the car and warm it up with one set of plugs, then switch in the 'main' set of plugs for the race) are a thing of the past.

Find out what is wrong with it and fix it. About the only argument I could make 'against' it is the cost - if a couple of hundred bucks (for which you could have a new electronic dizzy outright) is too tough on the budget (and I am no millionaire myself either) then ok, stick with points But if the budget will stretch that far, you'll never look back.

Well!
I do have a brand new module so no auto elec should be required I'll just remove the little housing and take out the old module and screw the new one in..

ohh ill be interested to know how you go with the new module! mine cost $32 from ebay brand new but had to wait 5 days for the auction to end and then another 3 days for postage so it just arrived at work about an hour ago!

i guess ill replace the module tomorrow sometime before i go (heading away for the weekend) and will see.. i guess the only thing to do re the wiring would be to not route through the ballast resistor and revert some of that temporarily to see how it goes.. I'll have to change the coil mounts over again but still could be a good thing!

you let me know how you go clyons8 and ill let you know tommorrow! hehe

Changed the module, spark improved but was still a little poor, replaced plugs with another used but newer set and the spark is quite good.

this evening i just fitted brand new sparks, brand new leads, brand new coil, brand new module.. very smooth but still between 10-20mph on the speedo still getting sputtering.. much softer but still there.. i wonder if it's something to do with the ignition wiring or if the dizzy just needs a reco!