I just read where you want to put a points dizzy back in there - I think you're crazy (just kidding) but if you want, I'll happily swap you a points dizzy for your one.

It appears to be a bosch dizzy, basically the same (save for being 4 cylinder) as the bosch hei units on blue motor holdens.

Try an experiment. Disconnect the vac advance and plug the hose and run it. It'll lose a little bit of part throttle response, due to no extra advance for light throttle conditions, but see if it clears the problem up a little bit or changes the rpm range that it happens at.

If it does, the vacuum advance isn't actually the problem, that's just a sneaky way of testing for another one.

Anyway - what can happen on the holdens, and might happen here too (esp if the kill switch overheated stuff) is when you take the two screws off the tin plate covering the hei module, you'll see 4 wires. If the colour coding is the same as the holdens, there's a pink and a green - they go to the coil. (from memory pink goes to coil plus green to coil negative) Then there are two thinner black wires that go into the dizzy main body. They usually have different sized plugs so you can't get them the wrong way around. But they are thin wires, and as the vac advance slides the top section of the dizzy, over time they can rub against the main body somewhere and start to short out. sometimes only at very specific rpms when the vibrations, mech advance/friction, the moon, the stars in alignment, whatever, and it causes a problem only in a certain rpm range. If that is the case, you have to be careful here, but you can dismantle or another option if you can find the bared wire section (it can also have a break in the wire that pulls and loses contact, or has poor contact/current carrying ability at certain angles)and paint some rubber paint on it.

Another thing that is admittedly less likely - is that the coil is wired in back to front. If you pull the dizzy wires off the coil for a second, there should be no current to the coil. When you turn the key to on, you should get 12v to the +ve terminal. It can still 'run' wired back to frnt, but tends not to run well, or last long.

IF it doesn't get a full 12v (or more when the motor is running) to the +ve terminal, get rid of the ballast resistor. these modules are meant to get a full 12v (and it was one of the many often overlooked pitfalls when swapping later model commodore dizzies onto early red motor holdens for better spark.

The commodore hei coil will work if you can get one cheaper, but the terminal on the coil is male (most are female). TO get the same spec coil (if they don't list one for a bluey, or you are looking for a price break based on it coming off a more common car) then the last of the ford clevelands afaik had the right spec coil, and the last of the ford 250 pushrod engines too.

It's an 81-83 bluebird dizzy!!!
L20 BOSCH-electr 9 230 064 519 BS 0246 **

a guy on the morris forums found a bosch catalogue!

Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 4:56 pm Post subject:
wow grant!
thanks so much! been looking everywhere!!


i've talked it over with my auto engineer friend and we're going to take the car back to standard.. i don't mind points..

would it mean i need to change the coil im currently using??

i guess time to post in the classifieds.. wtb: standard a12 dizzy in good condition!

on the dizzy stamped on the side is:

9 230 064 519
U-PGFU 4
22100-V9600

I found an old post on ozdat containing those numbers but no info about what the dizzy was off.. apparently feral erral was in on the conversation:
Conversation About Dizzy

[url]http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgccz/technic/pointless.pdf[/url]

i pulled this pic:

from that pdf.. the module housing deft looks the same as a bluebird s2

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apparently it's deft not a bluebird dizzy.. i'd love to know what it is..

either way does anyone have a contact for someone who'd do dizzy repairs???

alternatively i'd love to know if anyone has a modified electric dizzy to suit an a12 that is in good working order..

I would love to swap this out for another electric dizzy and coil but am not sure which would be the best replacement and even how to make the modifications to the dizzy to make it work..

the reason i thought it to be a bluebird was that the cap part # matched..

the e15 looks like a common swap but there are things on the wiki i don't understand or aren't too clear to me..

"Before drilling a new hole for the roll pin, ensure there is sufficient end float at the top of the gear. (Use a shim or similar when drilling). The clearance required is minimal but is needed to ensure the distributor spins freely" in the e15 modification wiki.. there are some things that aren't clear to me.. can someone point out what the roll pin is and where it is on the dizzy and what kind of clearance is needed?

"drill a new hole in the shaft, grind, file and drill the housing" - what is the hole in the shaft used for and where is it drilled.. "grind file and drill the housing" - where, by how much and why?

Very hard to tell, we run ours in a L18
Is there any experts out there that might be able to identify this dissy.

Hi Ivan!
was that running with an a12?

The offending dizzy.. has a controller silver looking thing at the base.. is this actually an S2 bluebird? if it is (im only going off the bosch cap number).. id be very interested in your dizzy ivan if it's in good nick??

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Got a series 2 dissy with bosch coil you can have for $100. Worked well in our race car.

Im not too sure about that particular coil but from my experience the bluebird dizzys will play up with the wrong coil