READ THIS FIRST:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-pa ... ake-types/power-brake.htm

Specifically look at animation:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-pa ... ke-types/power-brake2.htm

- The pedal will get pulled in a little if the pushrod is not the correct length into the master cylinder.
- The brake lights come on if this happens.

The air from the cabin (blue) should never meet the vaccuum side (red). This is the major reason that a change in idle will occur.

The booster has a hole in the diagram.. get a refund or find another one.

If the booster comes from a turbo car that didn't run a one way valve..this will blow a hole in the diaphram.

Mechanic changed names.

So I had a word with the mechanic who installed the brake booster and master cylinder in my ute last October. After originally paying $1400 for new brake booster, master cylinder, brake lines, new caliper pistons, and new rear brake shoes, he told me the brake booster is under 6 months parts and labour guarantee. As it has been 10 months he is not willing to look at the brake booster without yet again charging me more money.

Last night I tried driving with the brake booster line blocked. While the engine idles and performed much more smoothly, the brakes were almost inoperable and very dangerous. The brake pedal felt extremely stiff and braking distance was very great. Unfortunately I can’t identify the brake booster that he put in as I have been told that it is not a standard booster. People have told me that it may come from Toyota as the master cylinder has a Toyota brake fluid reservoir on it that the mechanic decided to put on.

The engine is running like #OOPS# with the brake booster as it stands now and cannot be driven safely by blocking the booster.

If it worked well for six months, it sounds like the mechanic did a good job.

He should be willing to tell you which parts/model he fitted, for no extra charge. Not to fix it, but to tell you the specification.

Or you could post photos here and we will try to help identify it.

Or you could re-fit the standard brakes, since those work well and are not dangerous.

Thanks DD. I did speak to the mechanic again with the invoice number for the job but he didn't have the part numbers on record. Bummer! All he gave me was a phone number to a brake place that reconditions brake boosters.

What work is required to get the brakes back to the normal setup? Is it simple? They are disk brakes on the front from a 120Y and standard drum brakes on the rear. Cheers.

Compared my engine bay to a friend's 78 Corrolla and the boosters were different

As requested here are some photos of the my UBB (Unidentified Brake Booster):

jeff looks like a corolla ae101/ae111 (ish) booster and master 98-01(ish).check booster book at repco/bursons/etc. i may have one under the house, i'll reply if i have one.

Awesome. Thanks Jamie.