PIGDOG is correct, thanks for that and sorry to mislead you guys, was not intentional.
It's funny how the brain remembers only what it wants too.
I had actually forgot about the steering arm and radius rods having to be stanza units.
The last one I did was on an early coupe what already had R31 struts in it, prior to that (about 7 years ago) was a late model ute. Funily enough I will be going back to R31 struts in the coupe for racing (With a few modifications to the previous setup).

Bump steer with this setup was exacerbated by the longer stanza steering arms if I remember correctly. There is really nothing readily available that will fix this issue (that I am aware of anyway).

mcgee...some of the info you posted is a bit confusing, and dare i say it, could lead to incorrect parts being used

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The control arms that are the same as stanza are the late 1200 ute or late 120y ones. as they have all the proper arms to put stanza stuff straight in almost. very much different to early 1200 stuff

1200 steering arm? as in what th actual strut bolts to? as the 1200 one, any 1200 one, will not work with stanza struts as the bolt spacing is very much different. you need to use stanza, sunny, 180b, 1600. they all work but are different from each other. stanza and sunny are the better ones

1200 radious rods, hey have to be late ute or late 120y ones to bolt in with the stanza or late 1200 control arms. early 1200 ones cant be modified to work. but itsnt the best way to go

1200 ball joints, there are 2 different lengths. correct, but they also have different bolt spacings and balljoint tapers. so only the larger one, which im pretty sure is actually the same length as the small ones anyway, will work with the stanza steering arms and stanza/late 1200 control arms. actual stanza balljoints are the same as the late ute and late 120y ones but are roughly 10mm longer. hence giving you a bit more camber, these are the ones to use
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In saying that, you should also mention that you will have the exact same problem with almost any datsun strut apart from r30, r31, z31, s12 maybe 280zx struts. all the stanza, sunny, 180b, 200b struts have the same stub axle angle and therefore the same wheel clearance (given the same hub spacing)
1200 and 120y struts have a different stub axle angle again allowing even less wheel clearance

Lightload, im unsure is spacing the balljoint relative to the lower control arm will actually achieve anything. as the pivot point of the balljoint relative to the pivot point of the control arm will still be the same. you will only be changing the visual angle of the control arm and not the actual angle of the pivot points.

Thats why you need to space the steering arm down away from the strut

wheel fitment will only be an issue with positive offest wheels, say if you were wanting to run 17x7s and keep them inside the guard. mave heard of anyone having fitment issues of any normal sized rims on a 1200. i can run 15x6 +25 rims on my stanza/200b struts with no issues. cant go much more positive offset wise or go wider at the same offest.
but for a race car it probably doesnt matter that much to you if you have the rims stick outside the guards a bit and have to fit flares

Hydraulic handbrake aye? Sounds a bit drift spec, unless its rally of course. Looking forward to seeing that.

Hmm just noted the ball joints attach under the arms so spacer would need to be on strut side. As said above.

Thanks again

Thank you very much for the info.

I would assume the R31 inserts would be more comman and might have good aftermarket options.

Hoping to drill the new mount holes up as high as possible and if it's not going to take to long I'll also attempt to make a spacer for the ball joint to lower the other end so bump steer is t effected as much by lowering it.

It is a budget build for now, more just for fun and amature club level events.

I will be doing a hydraulic handbrake for the rears anday have to invest in a bias control anyway.

Is the wheel fitment issue that the hub face is closer to the strut than others or just the hub to strut camber is less?
I hope to run negative offset wheels and reshape car body later if needed. (I enjoy a little fabrication, haha).

Having done this a couple of times, here is what I used.
Stanza struts (cut down with coilovers).
1200 or stanza lower control arms (ones I got were the same).
1200 steering arm, outer and inner tie rods.
1200 radius rod
1200 ball joint (there are two different lengths)
1200 strut tops.

Stanza struts are too long for 1200s.

Stanza shock length is 438mm.
200b is 403mm,
standard 1200 is 418mm,
R31 is 363mm,
z31 is 357mm.

So it depends on how low you want to go.
There are a few problems with lowered stanza struts and decent size wheels.
You can't get away from the scrub with this combo, wheel and tyre combo are limited due in offset, due to the space between tyre and spring (for lowered). But with rear wheel drived cars it is acceptable.

Moving the inner mounting point of the LCA out by 10mm will provide more static camber, this should be able to be accommodated by the tie rods, same effect as using the longer ball joints such as that in the utes (and i think 120ys as well).

Moving the inner mounting point of the LCA out and up is a way to address both the roll centre height and static camber or you can use adjustable camber tops, longer ball joints, and spacers between the strut and steering arm to achieve the same outcome.

Depending if it is full race or race/road combo. Full race I would recommend looking at R31 struts in lieu of Stanza, the strut offset allows for great wheel choice and less scrub, the compromise here is the R31 struts are about 1 deg less static camber to that of the Stanza setup, this will have to be compensated by some other means.

Generally, when you are working with a combined brake master cylinder you will need to balance the bore size based on the rear effect (i.e the rears will lock up first) or limit the rears through a restricting valve. This means a larger bore which gives less overall pressure for the same pedal effort.
With a booster, you will loose pedal feel, which you don't want to do for race. However for road, you will require less pedal effort (which is really a comfort thing given the size brakes you are talking about).

But if the budget is tight that selecting one off a doner car is important (not a new one) then Stanza is probably ok i suspect it will be around 7/8 Inch. Really anywhere from 3/4 (will probably require a restrictor in rears or they will lock up) to 1 inch would be fine (will require a lot of force to get the brakes to lock up).

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depends on what tierod ends you use. as some are longer than others. think its a bit sketchy using the stock tierod with the shorter ends

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why would you want to drill them out? you use the stanza lower arms which already have the larger holes in them and the right bolt pattern for the stanza ball joint

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i used a sunny one in my car, they are possibly similar to stanza. but with just stanza brakes you wont need a booster anyway.

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Depends on what shocks you run. 50mm brings them down to 200b length i think...which isnt enough if the car is rather low
240z inserts are shorter again. i think thats about 70mm
R31 i think are around the same length, maybe a touch shorter than 240z

ive got camry shocks in mine. forget exactly how much shorter they are. but its alot more than 240z shocks. hard to get good quality inserts for a camry though, as they arent exactly a sports car

Bolts straight in with the stanza control arms and struts.

Need to re-drill strut towers out to suit bigger bolt size or you can swap to the 1200 strut tops

Us the 1200 tie rods, Just drill out the holes and you also need to grind a small notch to clear one of the bolts that bolts the ball joint on.

1200 steering arms bolt straight up no probs.

Yes you can use Stanza booster, depending on what type though as some of them have very large booster canister. Others are very simular if not the same as 180B

Hi good people, I've started parting out my brother in laws stanza so I can grab the struts, brakes and lower arms. I've been doing a little research and need wanted some confirmation on a few things.

First off is there enough adjustment in stock 1200 tie rods or do I need to use the stanza ones?
If I redrill the lower arm mounts out 10mm then will I need to make new tie rods?

Second could I use the stanza brake master and booster instead of investing money in a 180b one or similar?

And last I need to work out how much to section out of strut tube, 50mm seems to be mentioned on a few sites but I'm going to weld on coil sleeves and the option of going low low would be nice. If anyone has suggestions on an insert I can run and amount to section out?
Will be used for hill climbs, motorkhana, sprints etc. Springs are 4kg/mm.

Thank you very much for your help