Couple of questions have come up.

Bore is 43mm on that flange (the 4AGE one) can do 45mm if required.

For people wanting to run these on the street be mindful of the size of those bores (very applicable to race and big cc A-series), they are very big, you might be able to sleeve them down but that's down to you really.

No worries Gary, will send you a PM soon.

Chris

Chris, you can put me down for two A-series flanges (two off the same) don't need the tb one, am using weber flange.

Ta.

Clyons8

Yeah thought it might have been you I got the inlet flange off - small world when it comes to Datsuns!

No I am not sweeping forward, sweeping them upwards a bit more (15° above horizontal)

Yeah I could start a build thread, tend to do most of my Datsun "on-lining" on nzdatsun.com, but I could have a bit more of a crack on here :) might start a summarized version, since its been about 4 years.. and still I have a 90% panel beated shell, and a garage full of parts....

Cheers
Kitch

Hello Kitch,

Great setup you have there. You bought those flanges from me off eBay, good to see you're a member.

Engine looks grand, are you saying the runners are swept forward toward the radiator?

What MS are you using? I have the MS3 (overkill) going with factory EFI and M45 supercharger. Nice work, you should start a build thread with all that A-series goodness.

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heres the photo of the motor with the ITB's mocked up

Note I am running enough angle on my inlet, so I can flip the whole assembly, thus getting TPS away from firewall, and discretely hiding the throttle linkages underneath, to give clearer room above for fuel rail etc.

my original setup pushed the fuel rail hard up against the throttle linkages, as I didnt want injectors too close to inlet, to give chance to atomise the inlet charge, but didnt want too long as I wanted to keep trumpets aay from strut tower, and also optimise the inlet length (I calculated I think 290mm to be about optimum, from valve and trumpet inlet)

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Good to see I am not alone with this wee challenge.

Been working on building a 4AGE ITB setup for my A15 motor for my 1200 coupe restore for the last 18 months or so on and off.
Think I have got pretty much all my bits sorted out, just some wiring, fuel lines & fab work on the manifold to sort out.
First Photo shows a mock up of the assembled ITB setup (will be abut 5° steeper inlet angle than shown).
Second photo shows all my bits; 1) 10mm Laser cut inlet manifold (ex Ebay AU), 2) Custom machined inlet tubes (yet to be match ported), 3) Bosch “shorty” injectors, and Custom fabricated injector pocket tubes (ex Ebay USA), 4) 6mm Laser cut ITB mounting plate, I had made locally (yell out if anyone wants the DXF file), 5) blasted & cleaned up 43mm Silver top 4AGE quad bodies, 6) Techno Toy tuning T3 red anodized trumpys (yummy).

Get my car back in a few weeks from the panel beaters all going well, so will trial fit up motor, wire up the Megasquirt, and hook up some juice etc, and do final fab work on the manifold.

http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/3053/dscf2251x.jpg

http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/3492/itbbits.jpg

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i'd be interested in an alloy flange for a oval port a series head

Thats fine, I would be willing to pay for the drawing...
I am a Sheetmetal worker by trade, I'll be doing all the fab myself.

Can you confirm a price for the quad flange only.

Ziggy, the only wiring is the TPS, easy.

Ziggy, not to sure about the loom, the throttle bodies belong to someone else. I did not receive a loom with them.

Chooie, sorry I don't release drawings. Been burnt a couple times before doing that with engine parts as well as in the architecture industry. No offense I am sure you are genuine but I just can't let them go.

As for a flange you are very welcome to buy one, do you need one as well for the SR20 primary manifold so it is a bolt-on bolt off fitting or are you welding directly to the SR20 manifold?

Flanges are in alloy, I hope this suits.

diymark, is this the case with alloy flanges as well? I wouldn't have thought so in this instance. I have found keeping the flanges bolted down and or tacked to some heavy plate reduces alot of the movement.