User Login    
 + Register
  • Main navigation
Login
Username:

Password:


Lost Password?

Register now!
Fast Search
Slow Search
Google Ad



Browsing this Thread:   1 Anonymous Users



(1) 2 3 4 ... 6 »


Boksie 3.0 complete rebuild.
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
Joined:
2006/7/12 1:44
From Cape Town ZA
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 1054
Offline
I think it's about time I give the guys on here an update.

This will be the remake thread for the Boksie*, 1.0 was still A12 , 2.0 was with the 4AGZE turbo, 2.5 was the upgraded 4AGZE turbo.

Boksie* 3.0 will thus be with the 4AGE 20V Silvertop. Motor has been acquired as everyone might have deducted already. A complete spray painting has also been booked , which will happen mid March somewhere(actually it's now end of June and the car is still over there, but I'm happy since it gives me more time to sort the other stuff out).

For a start I'll leave it NA, since this rebuild is really about getting the body as perfect as possible. I ended up on 12.3 second 1/4 mile with the 16V turbo 4AGE, but realized for some time already that I didn't originally build the car to be dragging with it. It was still very drivable on the road, but power corrupts... your right foot and if you stomp on the loud pedal to often it gets expensive to maintain all the broken parts and the rising fuel price is also a concern these days. If I get bullied to much it won;t stay NA for to long, hence the silvertop choice, since it's more suited to boost than the blacktop...

I've been busy with the rebuild for some time now, so for a start I'll simply be re-posting everything over here. It might take me some time though, since I have to log in like 10 times sometimes to make on post. Yes, I'm still having that bloody log in problem, but I can't stay away...

*Boksie is the nickname for my car, you pronounce it "boxy", and it's the Afrikaans word for "little box". My nickname on all other forums is also Boksie.

Posted on: 2011/6/23 8:10
_________________
1200 GX Sedan
New(being installed)
4AGE 20V NA

Old
4AGZE 16V turbo
196.5KW/283NM
800m - 200km/h
400m - 12.3s
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Boksie 3.0 complete rebuild.
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
Joined:
2006/7/12 1:44
From Cape Town ZA
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 1054
Offline
Ok so here's a few updates and pictures

Reference of what the engine setup looked like before this rebuild started...
Open in new window

Open in new window

Open in new window

Open in new window


As my dad would always say, "So leeg soos 'n hoer se hart","as empty as a prostitute's heart"...
Open in new window


Airbox removed, won't be needing that, and RWD waterpump fitted. I decided to use the 20V pump since it has on blade more than the 16V one, but you need to grind the fins down by about 1.5mm otherwise they catch on the rear housing. Not bolted down yet, still fiddling with the pre-circulation pipe.
Open in new window


I took of that crooked top pip, hacked of the flange, then cut of the end and another piece to make up the housing, Pitty I didn't get pictures before it was welded up. Also cut the bosses out of the rear housing to make holes for the Datsun dash guage and sender for the ECU. Just welded a piece of aluminium pipe for the pre-circulation circuit.
Open in new window


Inside of the housing just to give an idea, used flange and two pieces hacked to size to make the housing.
Open in new window


Housing being welded up...
Open in new window


Water outlet on the head. Must now find a curly rubber hose to connect the pre-circulation to the top of the waterpump. Still also need to make a fitting for the top of the pump.
Open in new window


Just another angle, nicely tucked away and looks OE from this angle. Sits in almost exactly the same spot as the 16V one did, will need a slightly longer pipe to connect to the radiator.
Open in new window


Rear housing removed and holes plugged up with rags. Want to flow those holes a bit to make sure the water circulates as easy as possible.
Open in new window


This week I'll try to get the rear cover plate made and also have the clutch modified to have the 21R center. Then the motor can go in and I can start checking for clearance and mock up the branch.

Posted on: 2011/6/23 8:18
_________________
1200 GX Sedan
New(being installed)
4AGE 20V NA

Old
4AGZE 16V turbo
196.5KW/283NM
800m - 200km/h
400m - 12.3s
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Boksie 3.0 complete rebuild.
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
Joined:
2002/10/28 6:49
From Melbored
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 9819
Offline
sweet looking setup congrats!!

Posted on: 2011/6/23 8:41
_________________
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEheU28ea3c
Give me control of a nations money supply and I care not who makes the laws - Mayer Amschel Rothschild

Politics not the oldest profession yet same result http://www.anarchistmedia.org/pdf/The-Anzac-Myth.pdf
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Boksie 3.0 complete rebuild.
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
Joined:
2006/7/12 1:44
From Cape Town ZA
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 1054
Offline
Ok so the bridge plate has been made for the back of the head. Very happy with how it came out, nice round corners for allowing the water to flow easily. The plate is 25mm thick, and the cavity is 20mm deep, measuring up the inlet and outlet pipes volume wise it should allow the same of not more water to pass. Will also still flow the holes where the water is supposed to come out and go in as the edges are very sharp, not really conducive to good flow.

Marked out last night like 11:30 or so.
Open in new window


Milled out with a bull nose tool.
Open in new window

Open in new window


Also sunk the holes so that I could use normal capscrews, they are a but stronger and more reliable than those cheese head allen bolts.
Open in new window


My dad made me this here plug...
Open in new window


...for this here hole...
Open in new window


Fitted the motor today, for a moment I was panicking a bit when #4 tb was fouling on the brake booster. But quickly realised that when I let it rest on the mountings it moved away. Not enough though, so I cut another 10 or so millimeter from the zorst side mounting to lean it a bit more to that side, tb moved away some more, and now the bottom of the sump is actually level with the cross member, but you can clearly see the motor lean to the passenger side. Doesn't bother me, can only shift more weight to that side to improve the handling and balance anyway.

Intake side, looks good much more space to work on the alternator and starter than with the 16V.
Open in new window


Exhaust side, still lots of space left for a nice branch.
Open in new window


Clearance on the back of the head. Still have about 10mm left there, more than enough so it won't touch. Glad that I don;t have to panelbeat the firewall.
Open in new window


Clearance between the #4 tb and the booster. Going to ahve to get creative with the intake there, want to run ramtubes, but might have to angle them to make space.
Open in new window


Clearance to the radiator and fan, only need to trim the bottom water outlet pipe slightly so it'll fit, top one I'll need to get a slightly longer one, but everything lines up perfectly.
Open in new window


Bought a few things over the past week or two. New TP100 harness, new VW radiator and copper button clutch. When I bought the silvertop motor I organised with the guys to swap the flywheel with another silvertop that had a blacktop flywheel on it for some reason. Today I finally got hold of that too, and my dad sommer gave it a skim while he was at it.

New copper button and the blacktop flywheel. Lying on top of the new radiator's box.
Open in new window


On Saturday morning me and my brother got stuck in and stripped the boksie down. Took us about 4 hours to take everything but the dash out, that's needed to still operate the steering. I'll help Jackie take the suspension out tomorrow night, then I can sort that out while he's busy with the body. I also want to upgrade the front brakes while I'm at it.

Say goodbye to the red boksie, the colour will be a bit of a surprise... :wink:

Open in new window

Open in new window

Open in new window

Open in new window

Open in new window


Initially I was a bit scared to take the windscreen and back window out. well not so much the front, because that you can still buy regularly, but the last time the back window blew out, at past the maximum the clock can show :twisted:, I had to drive around without a back window for almost 4 months before I could find one again.

Underside is also very messy, that'll also be sorted out, never really was painted the last time around, they only blasted some black rubberising stuff all over. The broken gearbox seal and diff made a right mess of the underside as you can see.
Open in new window


6

Posted on: 2011/6/23 14:35
_________________
1200 GX Sedan
New(being installed)
4AGE 20V NA

Old
4AGZE 16V turbo
196.5KW/283NM
800m - 200km/h
400m - 12.3s
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Boksie 3.0 complete rebuild.
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
Joined:
2003/11/28 9:12
From South Africa, Bloemfontein
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 1451
Offline
Sooo jealous. Het jy my PM gekry?

Posted on: 2011/6/23 14:49
_________________
1977 Datsun 1200GX
Standard A12GX motor (Planning conversion)
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Boksie 3.0 complete rebuild.
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
Joined:
2006/7/12 1:44
From Cape Town ZA
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 1054
Offline
So I can now continue with the brake conversion here. Will document everything I did so that it's easily repeatable.

Here's a drum hub(left) next to a disk hub(right). There does seem to be a height difference, but not to much, according to the guy's measurements they differ by 5mm, where the drum hub is 47mm and the disk one is 55mm. Also the disk hub diameter is wider on the mating surface with the rim, which means the rotor(no pun intended) might not fit over the hub, but that can be machined down so that it fits.
Open in new window


Went to Jackie to check on some progress and point out some more holes I wanted covered up. Am going for the clean look running wiring under the fenders and so on. Only stuff I want visible inside the engine bay is the throttle cable, plug wires and water pipes, the rest of the stuff will be hidden under the cross member and intake as much as possible.

So leeg soos 'n hoer se hart... Soon that ass will be sexy and shiny!
Open in new window


Here you can see some of the holes cleaned up that will be closed.
Open in new window


Even having the wiper motor's hole closed up, that's going to be moved inside the car now. Also I had to cut some of the stone tray out when I fitted the intercooler, you can see some pieces of box Jackie was using to make templates a he just wanted to box it in.
Open in new window


But after some thought I decided that I really wanted the cut piece replaced and ended up buying a complete stone tray from paint and panel for the princely sum of R114...
Open in new window


He'll just cut out the piece he needs and weld it in. It's cheaper than getting just that piece from the wreckers, they are sometimes insane with their prices.

Some progress on the body, having all the holes in the engine bay closed...
Open in new window


Also had some progress on the brake conversion. Ended up using Nissan Almera disks.
Open in new window


Difference in thickness, old 12mm, new 22mm.
Open in new window


Difference in size, old 208mm, new 258mm. You also get a solid disk for the Almera which is the same size(apparently the 280Z used this as a rear disk), but about 500g lighter...pffft
Open in new window


Only machine work to be done, the hub must be cut down on the OD by about 5mm to fit inside the disk. If you previously had drum hubs this cut might not be needed.
Open in new window

Open in new window

Open in new window


Also the spigot hole of the disk must be cut 2mm larger, so the disk can fit over the spigot. The PCD in the Almera disk is already 114.3mm. The disk on the outside has the added benefit of widening the track by 6mm on both sides, but longer studs will be needed. Will check which size rims will go over this conversion when I made the calliper brackets.
Open in new window


Side by side comparison of the heights.
Open in new window

Open in new window


Now I need to move on to making the brackets for the callipers to bolt to the struts. Will post more pics when doing that.

OK, I have bit of a issue here, took the calipers apart and the sliding pins were stuck. Well they eventually came out, but they have little rubber sleeves on them, and on 3 of the 4 pins they ripped as they came out. Have phoned around and only place so far is Nissan, but they sell only complete rubber kits for the calipers which included piston seal, dust seal, pin dust covers and these rubbers on the pins(if he understood what I said), but it's R785 for the lot as it's for both calipers.

I only need these little rubber bushes as all the rest is in excellent condition. Any ideas where I'd be able to find some? I have already tried Autozone, Midas, West Coast Cutch and Brake and Ferobrake.
Open in new window


The guy at West Coast Clutch and Brake suggested I make my own with some rubber pipes. I'm inclined to try and do that, since I have little rubber vacuum hoses that is about the right size, I'll just grind flats on 3 sides like these have to let air out the bottom of the holes. Will see if nothing turns up I'll try to make, if that fails, I'll buy from Nissan...

9

Posted on: 2011/6/25 21:23
_________________
1200 GX Sedan
New(being installed)
4AGE 20V NA

Old
4AGZE 16V turbo
196.5KW/283NM
800m - 200km/h
400m - 12.3s
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Boksie 3.0 complete rebuild.
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
Joined:
2006/7/12 1:44
From Cape Town ZA
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 1054
Offline
Ok so between J4F an myself we have finally found something useful to do with Golf's.

VW aficionados look away now...



You cut them up for their fender flares...

I always envisioned the car to have, what the old people called spats, or as we call it, fender flares. J4F had this brilliant idea of ridding the world of a few Golf parts, so I went ahead and bought 4 brand new Golf fenders. (EDIT: Taiwan, if it doesn't work, try another one )
Open in new window


Take one grinder and cut like you'd cut a fillet steak, with abandon... unfortunately we had to damage some Datsun goods in the process, but being Datsun it can only enhance the Golf donor parts...
Open in new window


Naaice!!! Now I'll be able to use those Skyline Compomotives in the front, if they fit over the brake conversion though...
Open in new window

Open in new window


Comparison old vs new.
Open in new window

Open in new window


Of course the rear was rolled out, but it wouldn't look good with the front now professionally done front arches
Open in new window

Open in new window


Looks fat :mrgreen:
Open in new window


Oh and a certain Mr Pomp found me the radio I was looking for, not the exact model, but just as good if not better. Still in perfect condition.

Dankie Pomp!!!

Open in new window


Here's a bit of an update, I'm full up at work, so I'm not getting round to the car's stuff to much, though I have made some progress.

After some fiddly business with paper I managed to make this template bracket to hold the caliper in place. It's a Nissan Almera caliper btw.
Open in new window

Still some space to move it closer
Open in new window

The pads weren't completely over the disk, but I was happy some changes would be made at the cutters.
Open in new window


Took it to the laser cutters who scan it in and draws it up in CAD. Had him bring the caliper slightly inwards and also center it on the other holes and so on. From paper to rough template to final prototype cut from galvanised plate.
Open in new window

Open in new window

As close as it is going to get.
Open in new window

Pads now properly over the disk
Open in new window

For these brackets you have to file the strut away a small amount in two places for them to bolt down. It's very little material you remove, so it's not going to weaken it at all.
Open in new window

Nice and snug fit.
Open in new window


The caliper is much more beefier than the old one and the disk size has gone up from 12x209mm solid to 22x256mm vented. Can't see me running out of brakes with this anytime soon. Also keep in mind that the caliper mounted like I did is still perfectly in it's range of movement, as the mounting faces line up perfectly distance wise with what it did on an actual Almera strut, I measured that before removing them and was amazed to see that it was perfect when I started the first prototype bracket. Also with the Almera disk you only have to machine the hub down on the outside to fit inside the disk, and either the hub where it goes through the disk or the disk itself, otherwise the stud holes are already the right PCD, so no extra holes and crap. These weight substantially less then Caravelle or BMW disks too, I think as much as 2kg, though they are smaller, but seriously, you are only stopping like 800kg...
Open in new window


Then on towards the carcass this lot will eventually be bolted to.

Jackie is doing an outstanding job with paying attention to each and every little detail. He's plugged up all the holes I asked for and more. He keeps apologising for it taking so long, but I'm only to happy, since I'm busy with the brake conversion and the diff and stuff in the background, more on that after the pictures.
Open in new window

Open in new window

Open in new window

Open in new window


This car is finally going to be exactly what I wanted it to be when I first started building it in 2006/7. Unfortunately Jackie has told me that a few people has seen it and more Golfs will be cut up for their fenders int he feature...

Ok otherwise what have I done, I've designed a very nice center cover for the tappet cover which will be cut from stainless, I hope it looks ok, otherwise I'll just revert back to the OE one.

I'm having a stainless exhaust manifold flange cut, since that will be built in stainless, as well as a set of stainless flanges to again build the exhaust in 3 pieces from the manifold collector backwards. I've decided to go with 50mm from the manifold to the first straight through box, after which I'm still a bit undecided if I should keep it 50 or maybe go up a size to 57 for the pipe over the diff and the back box. The deciding factor will be if they have 57mm bends and pipe at the stainless shop. Otherwise it'll go up to 63mm, but what I will do is to make a baffle with a conical reducer that can slide in and out of the back box that brings it down to 50mm, that should keep it quiet enough for when just pottering around.

Also having a 60-2 wheel cut, these damn Opel ones are very hard to come by lately, though we have made one with a Hyundai gear the last time we did.

What else, o ja, I though while I'm building the car and everything is out, I'll also fit and measure up everything for a turbo manifold, for just incase... :twisted:

The Alfa diff I've also stripped open, the last news was the sideshaft that broke. That was gladly the only thing wrong. I opened the portion completely and put the spider gears, clutches and cones under a magnifying glass and there's absolutely no cracks, chips or anything to be worried about on them. While I was at it I also fitted the 3.3:1 crown wheel and pinion. Before it was running on a 4.3:1 and 1st was all but useless. My best times, including the 12.3, I did when launching in 2nd, every time something broke was when I launched in 1st. So my guess without using a calculator is that it'll bring 1st up by a bunch and make it a nice top end cruiser. It used to hover around 4500rpm at around 100km/h in 5th, which is way to high.

Anyway I also found another set of spider gears, shafts and cones and only need two more clutches to be able to finish another LSD center portion for the other Alfa diff I have. Standard they only have 2, so I could finish it if I wanted, but I don't need it right now so I'll keep it in pieces until I can find more clutch plates for it. Then all I need to do is have 2 shafts made up for it, I recon using 2 M75 shafts and having them machined will do the job just fine. Once that's done, then I'll have a spare diff albeit with a 4.3:1 ratio, but it can just be stuck in and I'm going again.

Phew...

Posted on: 2011/6/27 17:40
_________________
1200 GX Sedan
New(being installed)
4AGE 20V NA

Old
4AGZE 16V turbo
196.5KW/283NM
800m - 200km/h
400m - 12.3s
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Boksie 3.0 complete rebuild.
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
Joined:
2006/7/12 1:44
From Cape Town ZA
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 1054
Offline
I love lasers, *zwing*, *pew pew pew*...

Flanges for intake, exhaust manifold and exhaust all in stainless, 60-2 gear in steel.
Open in new window


Of particular interest is this piece. Pulley measures 135mm, this is 145mm. Added hole on opposite side for some balancing and had them just mark tooth 12, 14 and 16(at the bottom of the gear). No more looking for those flipping Opel gears...
Open in new window


10

Posted on: 2011/6/27 17:44
_________________
1200 GX Sedan
New(being installed)
4AGE 20V NA

Old
4AGZE 16V turbo
196.5KW/283NM
800m - 200km/h
400m - 12.3s
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Boksie 3.0 complete rebuild.
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
Joined:
2006/7/12 1:44
From Cape Town ZA
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 1054
Offline
Here's the 60-2 parts disassembled. It's the standard 20V pulley that came on the motor that's been machined, the front ancillary pulley has been completely removed and the rest machined only enough to have flat surfaces where they are needed. The 4AGE pulleys have 2 bolt holes, I suppose for a puller, from the factory so it won't be any weaker than standard.
Open in new window


Here's the whole thing assembled. As you can see very compact and will look good on the motor. 100% fully adjustable to any angle you might need. I'll be placing the sensor in the fanbelt loop if you understand what I'm getting at, so the sensor doesn't need to be removed to replace the fanbelt.
Open in new window


We've already checked, we will be able to do this with any of the many variations of 4AGE pulleys there are.

And some more progress pictures of the body coming together.
Open in new window

Open in new window

Open in new window

Open in new window

Open in new window

Open in new window


12

Posted on: 2011/6/28 7:08
_________________
1200 GX Sedan
New(being installed)
4AGE 20V NA

Old
4AGZE 16V turbo
196.5KW/283NM
800m - 200km/h
400m - 12.3s
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Boksie 3.0 complete rebuild.
Moderator
Joined:
2001/5/3 7:04
From Hawaii, USA
Group:
Registered Users
Contentmaster
Usermaster
Posts: 28619
Offline
Bravo!
Open in new window


Very nice
Open in new window

Posted on: 2011/6/28 7:47
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer



(1) 2 3 4 ... 6 »



You can view topic.
You cannot start a new topic.
You cannot reply to posts.
You cannot edit your posts.
You cannot delete your posts.
You cannot add new polls.
You cannot vote in polls.
You cannot attach files to posts.
You cannot post without approval.

[Advanced Search]