just try and avoid it falling into gallery as much as you can,in the cylinder just blow it out, as well as the bolt holes,(watch putting air into water jacket holes you may get water everywhere, if not drained all out).did you check the head for warpage yet with a straight edge and feeler gauges.

I used a steel ruler for a straight edge on the head, seemed okay, I'm probably going to get it checked & pressure tested anyway, only cost 60 euros. The same guy will supply me with the gasket. I have a bad feeling that the last time it was done all of the gasket was not removed from the block.

sounds good, get him to give it a light mill & change valve stem seals(wouldn't hurt),would be interesting to know how much it is warped. (if any).

I had a better look at the head, both ends of the ruler are touching the ends of the head but there seems to be a small gap all the way down so it must be warped. Dont have a feeler gauge so off to the shop next week for a skim......

if the head is reasonably warped, then it may affect the valve seats as well, get them to check it for sealing.you can do a quick test yourself, by putting head on its side, filling up the ports up with a liquid like kero/petrol.see if it leaks at the valves,if leaks, then you will need the shop to re seat them.

This is as clean as I can the block, acceptable? Looks pitted in places but feels smooth.

Also maybe pull the timing cover off and put a gasket on it and the water pump ,water could leak down into the sump if the timing cover has a leaky gasket

From the photo, I'd say you need to prep the block face better.

1. Get all traces of the old gasket scraped off (it looks like this has already been done)

2. Get all oil stuff off the block face. Chase it off with ether, then scrape some more. Use a gasket scrape (easier) or a chisel or sharp putty knife (requires more careful). Do likewise with the cylinder head face

3. Chase the head bolt threads with a tap. I use an old head bolt which i've cut a line lengthwise with a hacksaw blade. Spray with ether and blow it out by using a length of tubing.

4. When you put the headbolts in, do not drip oil into the bolt holes, or dip the bolts in oil. The bolts should be very lightly oiled (no extra oil, the existing old oil is usually enough) to obtain a correct torque.

See Changing Head Gasket for more details.

rub surface with abrasive paper, wipe clean with thinners.

Thanks guys for all the help.... just looking at the link for changing the head gasket. I presume the torque pattern for my A15 is the same as the A12 and the torque spec for tightening I use is the A14 51-54 ft-lb?