you can also use a good hose clamp around the strut to sit the adjuster sleeve on, that way you can move it up and down til you get the height and droop you want without welding anything..

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So you dont have inserts yet? I know you can get tokico adjustables for 240zs for a pretty cheap price from the US, similar price to just normal pedders sports rider...but i'd say they would be a whole heap better shock

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the length of teh new insert 100% governs how much you shorten the tube. get the new inserts, sit them in the strut. Measuer how much shorter they need to be, remember you have to allow for the nut at the top also

Take out an additional 25mm for bump steer spacers, which i assume are actually more roll centre adjusters than bump steer. And they go on the bottom of the strut between the strut and the steering arm and have no effect on the ride height

I'd personally have the adjuster on the coilover sleeves in the middle then sit them in maybe an inch down from the top of the strut, put one decent tack to hold them on place. put all the suspention together and see how it sits. If you have to lower the perch a heap to get the ride height you want, measure that distance and then lower the sleeve by that amount so that the adjuster is still in the centre

At the end of the day its not that important where it is as you can always get longer of shorter springs to suit

Rob i think the only way you you will find out is by the good old trial and error unfortunately. I was in the same boat and mine looks as though it will work out in the end.

As for your questions..

How much you shorten the tube by will be determined on what length inserts you get, the shorter the insert the more you shorten it etc.

When fitting the sleeve kit (which is the same as mine) get your shortened strut and put it all together without welding the sleeve on, have the adjusting nuts at the top and put the 2 helper springs in.. once its all together tack the sleeve on. Disassemble and weld it up! this will place them at there highest point (which will be now lower then stock) and you have the option of winding the front down with the nuts which is around 4" from memory, and can also remove the helper springs which will lower it a further 2".. or one or the other, or both lol.

Dont wanna weld them too low to start with or it may result in stuff all travel.

As for the spacers, i cant help you there.

And the inserts, mine are 200b struts and i used R31 munroe inserts, which were a fair bit shorter.

Hey Rob,
Looking at your wheel to strut gap and how far the wheels are out of the guards, I reckon it's gunna be a close one. With the LCA's adjusted out a fair way and the camber tops in all the way in it may be ok. I really reckon you need a rim with a higher negative offset to get it closer to the strut. I'm hoping my rims will be perfect as with the Stanza spring perch (which is a LOT smaller than 180B spring perch) it's only 5 mm from the tyre.
It's gunna be a matter of bolt it all together and see how it goes. If all else fails you might just have to get a different offset for your front wheels and have a spare set for the back!

hey guys,
i know this has been spoken about in the past but after reading up on it i still have a few questions.
plan on using (if their wrong please let me know):
180b struts
maddat adjustable LCA
maddat adjustable caster bars
maddat bump steer spaces
maddat sway bar
late 1200 ball joints
1200 tie rods
ebay camber tops
HSD sleeve kit
240z/260z inserts. (Brands?)
springs ( no idea ratings and length)

i get the whole process of removing the old spring seat and rewelding the threaded piece back on once you've shorterned the strut tube, what governs how much you take out of the original leght? (front end has to come down about 105mm) and do you take out the additional 25mm for the bump steer spacers?
aslo at what height on the tube do you install the sleeve?

got a few photo's of how the car sits now, if all goes to plan would this get the wheels into the guards?